Build a Laundry Hamper Cabinet

Most laundry hampers either take up floor space awkwardly or look utilitarian enough that you hide them in closets. A built-in hamper cabinet solves both problems by creating a permanent home for sorting dirty clothes while looking like finished cabinetry. The tilt-out design keeps everything contained until you pull the front panel down, and the divided interior means lights and darks get separated from the start. This project uses straightforward plywood box construction with a piano hinge mechanism that feels solid every time you open it. The key is building the box square and getting the tilt panel balanced correctly. Too heavy and it slams shut. Too light and it won't stay closed. With the right counterweight position and a soft-close mechanism, you end up with a piece that works smoothly for years. Size it to fit standard plastic bins or fabric hamper bags, and position it wherever laundry actually gets removed — usually the bathroom or bedroom, not necessarily near the washer.

1. Cut the cabinet box components. Cut two side panels at 32 inches tall by 16 inches deep, a top and bottom at 24 inches wide by 16 inches deep, and a back panel at 24 inches wide by 32 inches tall from 3/4-inch plywood. Mark the inside faces before cutting so you know which edges get joined. Sand all cut edges with 120-grit paper to remove splinters.
2. Assemble the cabinet box. Apply wood glue to the edges and join the sides to the top and bottom pieces using 1-1/4 inch pocket screws, two per joint. Check square by measuring corner to corner diagonally — the measurements should match within 1/8 inch. Attach the back panel with glue and 1-inch finishing nails every 6 inches, which will hold the box square permanently.
3. Install the center divider. Cut a divider panel 14 inches wide by 30 inches tall. Position it vertically in the center of the cabinet, 12 inches from each side, and attach with pocket screws from inside the top and bottom panels. This creates two separate compartments for sorting laundry and prevents a single heavy bag from tipping forward.
4. Build the tilt-out face frame. Cut a face frame from 1x3 pine boards — two vertical stiles at 32 inches and two horizontal rails at 24 inches. Join at corners with pocket screws on the back side. This frame gets covered with a plywood panel and creates the hinge mounting surface. Attach the frame to the front edges of the cabinet box with glue and finishing nails.
5. Cut and mount the tilt panel. Cut the tilt-out panel from 1/2-inch plywood at 23 inches wide by 31 inches tall. Attach a continuous piano hinge along the bottom edge, positioning it so the panel sits flat against the face frame when closed. Mount the hinge to the bottom rail of the face frame, allowing a 1/8-inch gap at the bottom for clearance when the panel tilts.
6. Add magnetic catches and stops. Install two magnetic catches at the top corners where the tilt panel meets the frame. Position them so the magnets hold firmly but release with moderate pull pressure. Attach door stops or rubber bumpers on the inside cabinet top to prevent the tilt panel from falling backward too far when opened.
7. Install soft-close dampers. Mount soft-close lid supports on each side of the cabinet interior, positioning the piston end 4 inches from the front edge and the mount end 4 inches from the back. Connect the piston arm to the tilt panel with the provided brackets. Adjust tension so the panel lowers slowly and stays open at 45 degrees without slamming.
8. Finish and install hamper bins. Sand all surfaces with 220-grit paper and apply two coats of semi-gloss paint or stain. Let dry completely between coats. Place plastic bins or fabric hamper bags in each compartment, sized to fit the 11-inch wide openings. Secure the finished cabinet to wall studs with L-brackets if it's freestanding, or attach directly to the bathroom wall.