Build a Front Porch Planter

Cedar planters frame a front door better than almost anything else you can build in a weekend. They bracket an entrance with something living, they solve the problem of concrete that goes right up to the foundation, and they give you a project where every cut matters but nothing has to be perfect. A good planter is heavy enough to stay put in wind, deep enough for real roots, and built to drain without rotting out in three seasons. This is furniture-grade carpentry that lives outside—you're building something that handles soil weight, freeze-thaw cycles, and the fact that you're going to forget to water it for two weeks every August. The difference between a planter that lasts five years and one that lasts fifteen comes down to how you handle the bottom, whether you line it, and if you resist the urge to paint cedar that wants to weather silver-gray on its own.

1. Cut frame pieces to length. Cut four corner posts at 18 inches. Cut eight side rails—four at 24 inches and four at 16 inches. Mark each post 4 inches from the bottom and 4 inches from the top for rail placement. Sand all pieces with 120-grit to knock off splinters but keep the wood texture.
2. Assemble the long sides first. Lay two posts flat and position two 24-inch rails between them at your marks. Pre-drill two holes per joint with a 1/8-inch bit, then drive 2.5-inch exterior screws. Build both long sides identically. Stand them up and check that they're square by measuring diagonals—they should match within 1/8 inch.
3. Connect short sides to complete the box. Stand the long sides parallel and connect them with the four 16-inch rails, screwing into the outer faces of the corner posts. Work on a flat surface and check square again with diagonal measurements. The box should feel rigid when you pick it up by one corner.
4. Install the bottom with drainage gaps. Cut five bottom slats from 1x6 cedar at 22.5 inches. Lay them across the bottom frame with 1/4-inch gaps between each board—use a pencil as a spacer. Screw each slat to the bottom rails with two screws per end. These gaps handle drainage, so keep them consistent.
5. Add trim boards for finish detail. Rip 1x3 cedar into 2-inch-wide trim strips. Miter the corners at 45 degrees and attach trim around the top edge of the planter, flush with the outside. Use 1.5-inch screws from inside the box so no fasteners show on the trim face. This covers end grain and gives the planter a finished cap.
6. Line interior with landscape fabric. Cut landscape fabric to fit inside, draping up the walls and stapling every 6 inches near the top edge. Trim excess fabric flush with the top trim. Poke small drainage holes in the fabric at each bottom gap with a screwdriver. This keeps soil in while letting water out.
7. Fill with soil and position on porch. Move the empty planter to its final spot—it's much lighter now than after filling. Add 3 inches of drainage gravel, then fill with potting mix to 2 inches below the rim. Tamp lightly as you fill to eliminate air pockets. Plant immediately or let the soil settle overnight before planting.
8. Apply exterior finish or leave natural. Cedar weathers to silver-gray naturally and needs no finish. For color retention, apply one coat of clear exterior wood sealer within the first month. Avoid stains or paint—they trap moisture against the wood and shorten lifespan. Reapply sealer every two years if you choose to seal.