Build a Dust Collection Ductwork System

Sawdust settles everywhere. A proper dust collection system turns a hazy workshop into a clean workplace where you can actually see the cut line and breathe without tasting oak. The difference between shop vacuum hoses draped across the floor and a permanent ductwork system is the difference between constantly moving things around and just turning on a tool and working. A well-designed system pulls chips and dust from every stationary tool through hard ductwork to a central collector, with blast gates that let you direct suction where you need it. The goal is not perfection—it is practical capture at the source, minimal pressure loss through the runs, and a shop floor you can walk across without kicking up clouds.

1. Map the whole system first. Measure your shop and note every tool location that needs collection. Check each tool's dust port diameter and recommended CFM. Add up the CFM for your two most demanding tools—that is your minimum collector capacity. Sketch duct routes that minimize bends and keep main trunk lines short. Place the collector near an exterior wall for easy filter access and potential direct venting.
2. Anchor the collector first. Bolt the collector to the floor or wall where planned. Install the first section of duct vertically from the collector inlet using metal duct and sheet metal screws. This drop should rise to ceiling height where your main trunk will begin. Use a plumb level and secure it with metal strapping every four feet to wall studs or ceiling joists.
3. Run clean trunk lines. Install your largest diameter duct as the main trunk, typically 6-inch for most shop systems. Support it every four feet with metal hanger straps screwed into ceiling joists. Keep the trunk level or with a slight slope back toward the collector to prevent sawdust from settling in low spots. Use long-radius elbows for any turns—never hard 90-degree bends.
4. Branch smoothly downward. At each tool location, cut into the main trunk with a reducing wye fitting that steps down to your tool's port size—typically 4 or 5 inches. Run branch ductwork down the wall to just above each tool. Use 45-degree entry angles on wyes, never perpendicular tees, to keep air moving smoothly. Secure all joints with three sheet metal screws and aluminum foil tape over seams.
5. Control flow at every branch. Mount a blast gate at each branch line within easy reach from the tool position. These slide-open gates let you close off unused tools so suction concentrates where you are working. Screw gates firmly to duct on both sides—loose gates leak and kill system performance. Label each gate with the tool name using a permanent marker.
6. Keep hose runs short. Run short sections of flexible hose from each branch terminus to the actual tool dust port. Keep flex hose under four feet when possible—long stretchy runs create resistance. Use hose clamps at both connections and support mid-length flex with a wire hung from the ceiling so it does not sag or kink. Match hose diameter exactly to the tool port.
7. Find and seal every leak. Go back through the entire system and seal every joint with aluminum foil tape, not cloth duct tape which fails in dusty environments. Check that all screws are tight. Turn on the collector with all blast gates closed and listen for air leaks—you will hear whistling at gaps. Mark leaks with chalk and seal them. Open one gate at a time and verify strong suction at each tool port.
8. Ground and document everything. Run a bare copper grounding wire along the outside of metal duct runs, connecting it to the collector frame and shop electrical ground. This dissipates static buildup. Make a quick-reference chart showing which blast gate serves which tool and tape it near the collector. Note your filter cleaning schedule—plan to check it after every 8-10 hours of heavy use.