Clean a Faucet Aerator

Water flow from a kitchen or bathroom faucet slows to a weak trickle, or sprays sideways in erratic jets instead of a smooth stream. The culprit is almost always the aerator — that small screened fitting screwed onto the end of your faucet spout. Mineral deposits from hard water, sediment from old pipes, and calcium buildup clog the tiny mesh, choking flow and wasting time every time you fill a pot or wash your hands. Cleaning an aerator takes fifteen minutes and costs nothing. You'll restore full water pressure, eliminate spray problems, and extend the life of the fixture. Most aerators unscrew by hand. The rest need pliers and a rag. Once apart, the components soak in vinegar while you make coffee. Reassembly is reverse order. The difference in flow is immediate and satisfying.

1. Know Your Aerator First. Look at the faucet tip. Most aerators unscrew counterclockwise when viewed from below. Some cache aerators hide inside the spout and require a special key, but standard external aerators have flat sides or a coin slot for grip. Note whether it's recessed or protruding to choose your removal method.
2. Unscrew With Patience. Try unscrewing by hand first, gripping the aerator body firmly and turning counterclockwise. If it won't budge, wrap the aerator in a thick rubber band or rag to protect the finish, then use adjustable pliers with gentle pressure. Old aerators corrode in place — steady pressure beats force. If it's truly stuck, apply penetrating oil and wait ten minutes before trying again.
3. Map Every Layer. Place the aerator on a clean towel and unscrew the outer housing. Inside you'll find a stack: rubber washer, flow restrictor, mixing chamber, and one or more screens. Lay parts out in removal order on the towel so reassembly is foolproof. Take a photo with your phone if the order isn't obvious. The screens are delicate — handle them gently.
4. Dissolve Mineral Buildup. Fill a small bowl or glass with undiluted white vinegar and submerge all metal and plastic parts. Let soak for 30 minutes for light buildup, up to 2 hours for heavy mineral deposits. The vinegar dissolves calcium and lime without damaging finish or rubber gaskets. For extremely stubborn deposits, warm the vinegar slightly in the microwave before soaking.
5. Brush Every Mesh Hole. Remove parts from vinegar and scrub each piece with an old toothbrush under running water. Pay special attention to screen mesh — brush both sides until all visible debris is gone. Use a toothpick or safety pin to clear individual mesh holes if needed. Rinse the housing interior thoroughly. Hold screens up to light to verify all holes are clear.
6. Clear The Spout. Before reassembling, turn on the faucet briefly without the aerator attached. Let water run for 10 seconds to flush any debris that broke loose during removal. This prevents recontamination. You'll see cloudy water or sediment initially — that's what was waiting to clog your clean aerator. Turn off water before reassembly.
7. Stack In Reverse Order. Stack components back into the housing in reverse order of removal, consulting your phone photo if needed. The rubber washer typically goes in last, against the faucet threads. Each screen has a direction — domed screens usually face down toward the sink. Push everything snug but don't force anything. The stack should sit level and flush inside the housing.
8. Verify Flow Restored. Thread the aerator back onto the faucet by hand, turning clockwise. Tighten snugly by hand — metal-to-metal doesn't need gorilla strength. Turn on water and check for leaks at the connection and proper flow pattern. Water should flow straight down in a smooth, aerated stream. If it leaks, remove and check that the rubber washer is seated correctly. If flow is still weak or spray is erratic, disassemble and verify screen order.