How to Clear a Clogged Kitchen Sink Drain

Kitchens clog. Hair, grease, food scraps, and soap buildup form a dam somewhere in your drain line, and suddenly you're standing over standing water. The good news is that nine out of ten kitchen clogs live in the trap or the first few feet of pipe below your sink, which means you can fix this without calling anyone. You need a plunger, maybe a snake, and twenty minutes. Done well, your drain runs clear and you've learned something you'll use for the next decade.

  1. Remove Standing Water First. If water is backed up in the sink, remove as much as you can by hand using a cup or small bucket. Get the water level low enough that you can fit a plunger cup over the drain without the handle hitting the faucet. If the water won't drain at all, use a wet-dry vacuum or let it sit while you move to the next step. Do not pour chemicals yet.
  2. Heat Softens Grease Buildup. Run the sink tap at the hottest setting you have and let it fill the basin to about 4 inches deep. The heat will soften grease and soap residue. Let it sit for two to three minutes before you plunge. If you have a double sink and the other basin is clear, plug or seal that drain hole first so your plunging force stays directed at the clogged drain.
  3. Seal Wins Over Strength. Place a cup-style plunger (not a flange plunger meant for toilets) directly over the drain hole. Make sure the cup creates a complete seal around the opening. If you have an overflow hole near the rim, cover it with a wet cloth so air doesn't escape there. You're trying to create a seal and push water pressure down the drain.
  4. Pressure and Suction Win. Push down and pull up rapidly, keeping the cup sealed the whole time. Do 15 to 20 plunges in quick succession, then break the seal and see if water drains. If it's still slow or backing up, repeat the plunge cycle three or four more times. You're using pressure and suction to dislodge the clog or push it further down the line where it breaks apart.
  5. Check the Trap First. Look under the sink at the U-shaped bend in the pipe. Place a bucket underneath it, then use a pipe wrench or adjustable wrench to unscrew the large clean-out plug at the bottom of the trap (or unscrew the slip nuts holding the trap to the supply lines if there's no plug). Pull the trap down slowly and let any water drain into your bucket. Look inside the trap opening for hair, grease, or food debris. Reach in carefully and remove what you can by hand.
  6. Scrub and Rinse Thoroughly. Use an old toothbrush or a rag to scrub the inside of the trap where grease and residue cling. Rinse it under hot water from a pitcher or hose. If there's a stubborn blockage inside, use a straightened wire coat hanger with a hook on the end to fish it out. Once the trap is clean, screw the clean-out plug back in hand-tight, or reattach the trap to the supply pipes, making sure the slip nuts are snug but not over-torqued.
  7. Go Deep When Needed. If the trap was clean but water still won't drain, the clog is deeper in the line. Thread a plumbing snake (hand auger or motorized snake) into the drain opening. Crank the handle or motor to push the snake forward. When you feel resistance, stop and work the snake back and forth—you're either breaking apart the clog or snagging hair so you can pull it out. Withdraw the snake slowly, pulling any debris out with it.
  8. Nature's Drain Cleaner Works. Once the clog is cleared or loosened, pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain. Follow it with a kettle of boiling water (or very hot tap water). Let it sit for 15 minutes, then run hot tap water for 30 seconds. The baking soda will react with any remaining grease and help flush residue. This is gentler than chemical cleaners and safer for your pipes.
  9. Confirm the Clog Is Gone. Fill the sink with water and let it drain. It should drain smoothly without backing up or gurgling. Run the dishwasher or use the sink normally. If water drains freely and there are no puddles under the sink, the clog is gone. If water still drains slowly or backs up, you may have a blockage deeper in the line that requires a professional or a motorized auger.