How to Clean and Restore a Clogged Kitchen Faucet Aerator

A clogged aerator is one of those small plumbing problems that feels bigger than it is. Water pressure drops, the stream sprays sideways, and suddenly your kitchen sink feels broken. The good news: the aerator is a $2 part doing a $200 job, and cleaning it takes less time than making coffee. The aerator is that little metal or plastic piece threaded onto the very tip of your faucet. Inside it are tiny mesh screens that mix air into the water stream, reduce splashing, and catch sediment before it reaches your pipes. When mineral buildup or debris clogs those screens, water either trickles or shoots everywhere. Restoring it is straightforward work that requires no special skills, no plumber, and nothing but what you probably have in your cabinet already.

1. Stop Water, Catch Drips. Close the shut-off valve under the sink, or turn off the main water supply if there's no local valve. Some water will drip from the aerator when you unscrew it. Place a small bowl or cup under the faucet tip to catch it and prevent mess on your countertop.
2. Twist Free With Care. Most aerators unscrew by hand. Grip the aerator body (the part you can see) and turn it counterclockwise. If it's stuck or you're worried about stripping it, wrap a soft cloth around it and use an adjustable wrench or pliers for leverage. Turn slowly and steadily until it comes free. Watch for small washers or rubber seals inside the threads—they fall out easily.
3. Identify Your Enemy. Hold the aerator up to light. You'll see a metal or plastic body, usually chrome or brass finished. Inside are typically two or three fine mesh screens (sometimes called strainers), often sandwiched between metal rings or discs. Mineral deposits appear as white, tan, or gray crusty buildup. Debris appears as sediment, sand, or black flakes. This visual check tells you whether soaking or scrubbing is your main approach.
4. Separate Into Layers. Most aerators come apart by hand or with gentle prying. The body unscrews from the tip, or the mesh screens lift or slide out from the body. Gently separate each component. Some aerators are glued or crimped and don't disassemble—if it won't come apart easily, soak the whole thing. Lay each piece in order so you remember the assembly sequence.
5. Dissolve Minerals Overnight. Fill a small cup or bowl with undiluted white vinegar. Submerge all aerator parts, especially the mesh screens. If the buildup is heavy, heat the vinegar in the microwave for 30 seconds before soaking—warm vinegar works faster. Let everything soak for 10–20 minutes. You'll see the vinegar cloud slightly as minerals dissolve. For stubborn deposits, leave it for up to 30 minutes.
6. Scrub Mesh Open. Remove the screens from the vinegar and gently scrub them with a soft-bristled toothbrush under running water (use the faucet on the other side of the sink if you have a double sink). Focus on the mesh openings, brushing at a low angle to push debris out rather than further in. Work methodically across the entire surface. Rinse between strokes to see your progress. The mesh should look almost clean through, with water flowing through easily.
7. Flush Body Passages. Hold the main aerator body under running water from the other sink and flush it from both the outside and inside. If there's a recessed section where sediment collects, use your finger or a damp cloth to wipe it out. You should see clear water flowing through the interior passages without hesitation. If water still hesitates, soak that piece another 10 minutes and repeat.
8. Second Soak If Stubborn. If your mesh is still discolored or buildup remains after brushing, return it to vinegar for another 15 minutes. Repeat the soaking and scrubbing cycle only once more—if it's not clearing after two rounds, the aerator may be permanently damaged and should be replaced. Most aerators, however, come clean in one good soak and brush.
9. Banish Vinegar Traces. Run every component—body, screens, washers, seals—under clean running water for at least 10 seconds. Rub them lightly with your fingers to remove any remaining vinegar smell or residue. Shake off excess water and set each piece on a clean paper towel. Let them air-dry for 2–3 minutes while you prepare to reinstall.
10. Rebuild Layer by Layer. Using your memory or your phone photo, rebuild the aerator layer by layer. Usually this means inserting mesh screens back into the body, then threading the body back onto the tip. Hand-tighten only—do not use a wrench on reassembly, as over-tightening can crack plastic parts or strip threads. Stop as soon as you feel resistance. Make sure the rubber washer and seal are in place before final installation.
11. Thread Back Tight. Thread the reassembled aerator back onto the faucet tip by hand, turning clockwise. You'll feel it seat progressively. Tighten by hand until snug—you should need to turn about one full rotation once it's seated. Don't force it. The aerator should sit flush against the faucet with no gaps, and it should not leak water around the threads.
12. Confirm Flow Restored. Turn the shut-off valve back on slowly. Watch for leaks around the aerator base and at the valve itself. Run water for 10–15 seconds and observe the stream. It should be smooth, consistent, and roughly the same diameter from top to bottom. No spraying, no trickle. If the flow is back to normal, you're done. If it's still weak, air may be trapped in the line—run cold water for another 30 seconds to purge it.