How to Clean a Clogged Kitchen Faucet Spray Head

Mineral deposits and sediment build up inside your kitchen spray head faster than you'd think, especially if you have hard water. The nozzle starts to spray sideways, or water comes out in weak spurts instead of a solid stream. It's frustrating and looks broken, but it almost never is—just clogged. The good news is you can fix this in under an hour without buying anything expensive or calling a plumber. Most of the time you don't even need tools beyond what's already in your junk drawer.

1. Stop the Flow First. Locate the water shutoff valves under the sink—usually one for hot and one for cold. Turn both clockwise until they stop. Open the spray head over the sink and squeeze the trigger a few times to release any remaining water pressure in the line.
2. Loosen the Collar Nut. Look where the hose connects to the main faucet body. Most spray heads have a collar nut that screws on. Grip the hose near the base and turn the collar counterclockwise. If it won't budge, wrap a cloth around it and use adjustable pliers. Once loose, unscrew it by hand the rest of the way and pull the hose free.
3. Separate the Head. The spray head itself usually screws onto the hose tip. Hold the hose steady and turn the spray head counterclockwise. It should come free with a little pressure. If it's stuck, soak it in warm vinegar for five minutes, then try again.
4. Spot the Clog. Look inside the spray head opening. You'll see small holes around the perimeter—these are the jet openings. You may also see a plastic diverter or ball mechanism inside. Mineral deposits appear as white, crusty buildup. If the head is badly corroded or cracked, replacement is easier than cleaning.
5. Dissolve Mineral Deposits. Fill a cup or small bowl with white vinegar—enough to completely submerge the spray head. Place the spray head opening-side down in the vinegar and let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes. The acid dissolves mineral deposits without chemicals. For heavy buildup, soak overnight.
6. Unblock Each Jet. After soaking, use a straight pin, sewing needle, or the sharp tip of a toothpick and carefully work it through each jet hole. Push straight in and wiggle gently—don't jab sideways, as you can enlarge the hole. You'll feel debris break loose. Flush each hole by holding it under running water or squirting it with a small syringe if you have one.
7. Flush All Debris Out. Hold the spray head under hot running water and work the openings with your fingers. Rub away any remaining white crust. If buildup persists, return it to the vinegar for another 15 minutes, then repeat the pin-cleaning step.
8. Reattach the Head. Thread the spray head back onto the hose tip by hand. Tighten it clockwise until snug—hand-tight is enough. Do not over-tighten, as you can strip the plastic threads.
9. Reconnect to Faucet. Push the hose connector back into the faucet body where it came from. Screw the collar nut back on by hand, then tighten it firmly with pliers if needed. The connection should be snug but not over-tight.
10. Restart the Water Supply. Turn on both water shutoff valves under the sink, turning them counterclockwise slowly. Start with just a quarter turn to let air and water gradually fill the line. Once the hissing stops, open fully. Squeeze the spray head trigger and check for a solid, even spray pattern.
11. Verify No Leaks. Inspect under the sink where the hose connects and around the spray head collar. Look for drips. Turn on the faucet at full flow and let hot water run through the spray head for 30 seconds to flush any remaining debris from inside the line.
12. Confirm Strong Spray. Wipe down the spray head and hose with a clean towel. Spray a clean surface—a paper towel works—and observe the pattern. It should be even, full, and strong. If spray is still weak or uneven in one area, one jet hole may still be partially blocked; soak and clean again for five more minutes.