Installing a New Bathroom Faucet

Replacing a bathroom faucet is one of those projects that looks intimidating until you actually start it—then you realize most of the work is just access and hand-tightening connections. A leaky faucet, a corroded spout, or simply wanting something that matches your style are all valid reasons to swap it out. The actual installation takes two to three hours if you're methodical, and you'll need basic tools you probably already own. What matters most is taking your time under the sink, getting comfortable with the space, and not over-tightening anything—brass and plastic fittings strip easily. When it's done right, your new faucet will sit solid, run silently, and not weep a single drop.

1. Shut Off the Water. Locate the shut-off valves under the sink—one for hot water, one for cold. Turn both clockwise until they stop. If your home doesn't have individual shut-offs, turn off the main water supply. Open the faucet above to release any remaining pressure in the lines, then let a little water run to confirm the supply is cut.
2. Disconnect Supply Lines. Place a small bucket under the supply lines where they connect to the faucet. Using an adjustable wrench or basin wrench, unscrew the connector nuts holding the hot and cold supply lines to the faucet inlet ports. Water will still drip from the lines—that's normal. Set the loose supply lines aside where they won't drip on anything important.
3. Detach Pop-Up Linkage. If your sink has a pop-up drain with a stopper, locate the horizontal lift rod that connects the faucet handle to the drain assembly under the sink. Unscrew the clevis clip or clip nut holding the lift rod to the vertical pop-up linkage. Separate the lift rod from the linkage and carefully pull it up through the faucet body to remove it.
4. Remove Mounting Bolts. Move to the top of the sink and locate the mounting bolts or nuts that hold the faucet base to the sink. These are usually under the deck with large nuts that can be accessed from below, or sometimes they're accessible from above if the faucet has a collar or ring. Use a wrench or socket (or basin wrench from below) to remove these bolts. The faucet will now be loose at the top and ready to lift out.
5. Lift Out Old Faucet. Lift the old faucet straight up and out of the sink. You may need to rock it gently side to side to clear any silicone sealant around the base. Set it in the sink basin and inspect the mounting holes on the sink deck—you'll likely see mineral buildup or old silicone. Scrape away any dried sealant with a plastic scraper or old credit card, and wipe the area clean with a damp cloth.
6. Set and Seal New Faucet. Check that your new faucet's mounting holes align with the holes in your sink. Most new faucets come with a rubber gasket or foam seal that goes under the faucet base—place it now. If your faucet doesn't include one, apply a thin bead of silicone caulk around the underside of the faucet base. This prevents water from running underneath and pooling. Lower the faucet into position, center it, and press down firmly.
7. Secure Mounting Bolts. From under the sink, hand-tighten the mounting bolts or screws first to make sure the faucet sits level. Then use a wrench to snug them down—snug means tight enough that the faucet won't move, not gorilla-tight. Overtightening can crack the sink or strip the bolts. The faucet base should feel solid when you gently push on it from above.
8. Reattach Pop-Up Linkage. If your new faucet has a pop-up drain, feed the lift rod down through the faucet body from above. From underneath, connect the rod to the vertical pop-up linkage using the clevis clip or clip nut that came with the faucet. The connection should allow the rod to move freely up and down about an inch without resistance. Tighten the clip nut snugly but don't force it.
9. Reattach Supply Lines. Hand-tighten the supply line connectors to the faucet inlet ports first—one to hot, one to cold. Make sure they're seated, then use a wrench to tighten them another quarter to half turn. They should be snug enough that they won't leak, but you shouldn't need tools to tighten them beyond hand-tight plus a fraction of a turn. If either line is damaged or kinked, replace it now before you test the water.
10. Test for Leaks. Turn the shut-off valves counter-clockwise slowly—give the system ten seconds to pressurize. Open the faucet and let water run from both hot and cold for a full minute to flush out any debris. Close the faucet, then carefully inspect every connection point underneath the sink with a dry paper towel. Look for drips at the supply line connections, the faucet inlet ports, and the pop-up linkage area. A single drop within a few seconds is normal; a steady drip or stream means a connection needs tightening.
11. Final Cleanup and Check. If silicone caulk squeezed out around the faucet base while you pressed it down, wipe it away with a damp cloth before it dries. Run hot and cold water through the faucet multiple times, checking that both handle positions work smoothly and water flow is even. Test the pop-up drain by pushing the handle down and up; it should seal and release without sticking. Wipe the faucet dry and check the chrome, nickel, or finish for any fingerprints or debris.