How to Install a New Toilet

Replacing a toilet is one of those projects that looks intimidating until you actually do it—then it becomes clear that it's mostly about disconnecting one thing, removing old hardware, and bolting down a new one. The whole operation hinges on the wax ring, that waxy seal between the toilet base and the floor flange that keeps waste water from leaking into your subfloor. Get that right and the rest follows. A new toilet is usually a weekend morning job, and you'll need basic tools and a new wax ring. The hardest part is usually the old one coming out—some stick like they're welded—but patience and a bit of rocking motion solves it. The key to doing this well is not rushing the removal, keeping the floor flange clean and level, and making sure that new wax ring seats evenly without gaps. You're working with gravity and a simple seal here, so attention to those details keeps you dry and your bathroom sound.

1. Cut Water Supply First. Locate the shutoff valve behind or beneath the toilet and turn it clockwise until it stops. Flush the toilet to empty the tank, then use a sponge or towel to soak up any remaining water in the bowl and tank. This prevents water from spilling when you disconnect the supply line.
2. Unscrew the Supply Line. Place a bucket under the connection nut where the supply line meets the tank. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut by turning it counterclockwise. Once loose enough to turn by hand, unscrew it the rest of the way and set the line aside. If water drips, that's normal—catch it with the bucket.
3. Free the Base Bolts. Look at the base of the toilet where it meets the floor. You'll see two bolts (or sometimes four) on either side, usually with plastic caps covering them. Pry off the caps with a flathead screwdriver, then use an adjustable wrench or socket to loosen each bolt. You may need to hold the nut underneath with a second wrench so the bolt doesn't spin. Once loose, unscrew by hand.
4. Rock and Lift Out. Place your hands on either side of the bowl near the rim and gently rock the toilet back and forth—just an inch or two each way. This breaks the seal of the old wax ring. Once it rocks freely, grip the bowl firmly and lift straight up. It's heavy (40-50 pounds), so use your legs, not your back. Set it on its side on a tarp or old towel outside the bathroom.
5. Scrape the Flange Clean. Look at the floor flange—the brass or plastic ring set into the floor where the toilet bolts down. Scrape off all old wax with a putty knife, working carefully so you don't damage the flange itself. Use a damp rag to wipe away wax residue until the flange is clean and dry. Check that the flange is level and not cracked. If it's damaged, you'll need to replace it before setting the new toilet.
6. Set the New Toilet. Take the new wax ring and press it firmly onto the bottom of the new toilet bowl, centering it over the waste opening. You can also place the wax ring on the flange instead—whichever you choose, make sure it's centered and seated evenly. Align the new toilet's bolt holes with the flange bolts, then slowly lower the toilet straight down onto the wax ring. Don't twist or shift it side to side. Press down firmly and evenly across the bowl rim. The toilet should settle with a slight squeeze of the wax ring.
7. Bolt Down and Reconnect. Insert the bolts through the base holes and thread the nuts on underneath. Tighten them alternately (left, right, left, right) in quarter-turn increments until snug—don't over-tighten or you'll crack the porcelain. Snap the plastic caps back over the bolt heads. Reconnect the supply line to the tank inlet, hand-tighten first, then use a wrench to snug it without crushing the ferrule. Open the shutoff valve.
8. Commission the New Toilet. Flush the toilet and let it refill. Watch the tank—if water level is too high and overflows into the overflow tube, adjust the fill valve by turning the adjustment screw or clip on the valve (check your new toilet's manual). If water level is too low, adjust upward. Test for any leaks at the supply line connection, the base, and around the tank. Run it through a few flushes and watch for drips or seeps.