Install a Recessed Medicine Cabinet

A recessed medicine cabinet trades wall depth for bathroom counter space, tucking storage into the cavity between studs instead of jutting into the room. The work is straightforward demolition and carpentry—cut a precise opening, secure the cabinet to framing, and finish the edges—but the stakes are high. Cut in the wrong spot and you'll hit plumbing or electrical. Miss a stud and you'll need blocking. Done well, the cabinet looks built-in and original, its mirror sitting flush with the wall plane like it's always been there. Most residential walls are framed with studs sixteen inches on center, giving you a cavity roughly fourteen and a half inches wide to work with. That's the design constraint. You'll verify stud locations, confirm there are no hidden utilities, cut away drywall, and mount the cabinet to the framing. The project takes a few hours if the wall cooperates. Budget a full day if you need to add blocking or repair drywall around the opening.

1. Locate studs and mark the opening. Use a stud finder to locate the two studs that will frame your cabinet opening. Mark their edges on the wall. Measure the cabinet's rough opening dimensions from the manufacturer specs and mark a level rectangle on the wall between the studs. The cabinet needs to fit between studs with about a quarter-inch clearance on each side. Double-check that your marks are level and plumb before cutting.
2. Check for hidden utilities. Drill a small pilot hole at each corner of your marked opening and inspect inside the wall cavity with a flashlight or inspection camera. You're looking for electrical wires, plumbing pipes, or HVAC ducts. If you find utilities running through your planned opening, stop and choose a different location. Most bathroom walls near sinks have plumbing stacks and supply lines that can't be moved easily.
3. Cut the drywall opening. Score your marked lines with a utility knife, then cut along them with a drywall saw or oscillating multi-tool. Cut just inside your marks so the cabinet flanges will cover any rough edges. Remove the drywall section and pull out any insulation in the cavity. Clean up the opening edges with the utility knife, removing any ragged paper or crumbling gypsum. The cleaner the cut, the tighter the cabinet will sit.
4. Install blocking if needed. If your cabinet is narrower than the stud cavity or needs support at the top or bottom, cut two-by-four blocking to fit horizontally between the studs. Toe-screw the blocking into the studs with three-inch screws, positioning blocks where the cabinet's mounting flanges will sit. The blocking should be flush with or slightly recessed from the drywall face so the cabinet slides in cleanly.
5. Test-fit the cabinet. Slide the cabinet into the opening without fastening it. Check that it sits flush with the wall surface and that the door swings freely without hitting the edges. Shim behind the cabinet if needed to bring it perfectly flush. Mark where the mounting holes align with studs or blocking. Remove the cabinet and drill pilot holes at your marks to make final installation easier.
6. Secure the cabinet. Slide the cabinet back into the opening and drive two-inch screws through the mounting flanges into studs or blocking. Start with one screw at the top center to anchor it, check level, then add screws at all remaining mounting points. Tighten screws gradually and evenly to avoid warping the cabinet frame. The flanges should pull snug against the drywall without crushing it.
7. Finish the edges. Run a bead of paintable caulk around the perimeter where the cabinet flange meets the wall. Smooth the caulk with a wet finger or small tool to create a clean transition. If your cabinet has a trim kit, install it now according to manufacturer instructions. Wipe away any excess caulk before it dries. Let the caulk cure for the time specified on the tube before painting if needed.
8. Install shelves and hardware. Insert any adjustable shelves into their tracks and adjust them to your preferred heights. Attach door hardware, magnetic catches, or soft-close hinges if they weren't pre-installed. Test the door operation and adjust hinges if needed for smooth closing. Clean the mirror and interior with glass cleaner and load the cabinet with your supplies.