Install a Shower Door

A properly installed shower door transforms a bathroom from builder-grade to custom-quality in an afternoon. The difference between a door that leaks and one that seals cleanly for years comes down to three things: accurate measurement before ordering, keeping everything plumb during installation, and generous application of silicone in the right places. Most shower door failures trace back to one of those three points. The job breaks into distinct phases: measuring and ordering, installing wall channels, hanging the door, and final sealing. Take your time with measurement — returning a custom-cut door costs more than the extra twenty minutes spent triple-checking dimensions. The physical installation moves quickly once you have the right components in hand. By evening, you'll have a door that closes with that satisfying magnetic click and keeps water exactly where it belongs.

1. Measure the opening and order components. Measure width at three points — top, middle, and bottom of the opening. Use the smallest measurement. Measure height from the tub rim or shower pan to the desired top of the door, typically 72 inches. Account for any slope in the tub rim. Order a door sized for your measurements, noting whether you need a left or right-hand swing.
2. Mark and drill wall channel holes. Hold the wall channel against the wall where it will mount. Use a level to ensure it's perfectly plumb. Mark drill holes through the channel mounting slots. Set the channel aside and drill pilot holes at marks. If hitting tile, use a carbide bit and start at low speed to prevent cracking.
3. Install wall channels with sealant. Run a continuous bead of clear silicone along the back of each wall channel. Press firmly into position and secure with provided screws. Don't overtighten — you want the channel snug against the wall but not distorting. Wipe away any squeezed-out silicone immediately with a damp cloth.
4. Install bottom track or threshold. Apply a generous bead of silicone along the tub rim or shower pan where the bottom track will sit. Press the track into place, ensuring it's level side-to-side. The track should align with the wall channels. Let silicone set for ten minutes before proceeding.
5. Hang the door panel. Slide the door panel into the wall channel from above, then lower into the bottom track. Most doors have adjustment screws at the top — use these to get the door perfectly vertical with a level. Check that the door swings freely and the magnetic strike aligns with the catch on the fixed panel or opposite wall.
6. Attach handles and hardware. Install the handle on the door panel according to manufacturer specs, typically with through-bolts that thread from inside to outside. Don't overtighten — glass is strong but can crack under uneven pressure. Install towel bars or other accessories included with your door kit.
7. Seal all vertical seams. Apply a thin bead of clear silicone along all vertical seams where the wall channels meet tile, where the door frame meets glass, and along any other potential leak points. Use a wet finger or silicone tool to smooth beads into neat concave lines. Work carefully — this final sealing step determines whether water escapes.
8. Let cure and test operation. Allow silicone to cure for 24 hours before using the shower. After curing, test the door by running water and checking for leaks at all seams. Open and close the door several times to verify smooth operation and proper magnetic catch engagement. Make any final adjustments to alignment screws.