Install a Shower Niche

A shower niche transforms a stack of shampoo bottles on the floor into civilized storage built into the wall itself. The best niches disappear into the tile pattern, feeling inevitable rather than added on. Most shower walls are built with 16-inch stud spacing, which gives you a natural 14½-inch cavity to work with — enough for two bottles side by side. The work happens in stages: demolition, framing, waterproofing, then tile. Each layer matters because water finds mistakes. Done right, a niche becomes the most-used feature in the shower, holding exactly what you need at exactly the right height.

1. Mark and cut the opening. Measure 48 inches up from the shower floor for the bottom edge — this puts bottles at shoulder height. Mark a rectangle 14½ inches wide by 12 inches tall, centered between two studs. Use a utility knife to score the tile grout lines around your marked area, then carefully break out tiles with a hammer and cold chisel. Cut through the cement board backing with an oscillating multi-tool, exposing the stud cavity.
2. Frame the niche box. Cut pressure-treated 2x4s to create a frame that fits snugly between the studs. Install a horizontal sill at the bottom, sloped toward the shower at 5 degrees so water drains forward. Add a top piece and vertical sides, screwing everything into the studs with 3-inch deck screws. The frame should sit flush with the existing wall surface.
3. Install cement board backer. Cut cement board to line the inside of your niche frame. Screw it to the framing with cement board screws every 6 inches. Use thin-set mortar to fill any gaps between boards. The cement board creates a stable, moisture-resistant substrate for your waterproofing layer.
4. Apply waterproof membrane. Paint liquid waterproofing membrane over all interior niche surfaces, overlapping onto the surrounding shower wall by 4 inches. Apply two coats, letting the first dry completely. Press fabric reinforcing tape into wet membrane at all corners and seams, then cover with another membrane coat. This creates a continuous waterproof pan inside your niche.
5. Set the sill tile. Cut tile for the sloped sill, maintaining the 5-degree pitch. Spread thin-set mortar on the sill and back-butter your tile. Set it with slight forward pressure, checking the slope with your level. This tile takes the most wear and needs the strongest bond. Let it cure 24 hours before continuing.
6. Tile the niche interior. Tile the back wall first, then sides, keeping grout lines aligned with your main shower pattern. Use small spacers to maintain consistent gaps. Cut tiles to fit using a wet saw, checking each piece before setting it in thin-set. Work from back to front so each layer overlaps properly for water drainage.
7. Grout and seal. Wait 48 hours for thin-set to cure, then mix unsanded grout for joints under ⅛ inch or sanded for wider gaps. Push grout into joints with a rubber float, working diagonally across tiles. Wipe excess with a damp sponge after 15 minutes. Let grout cure 72 hours, then apply penetrating grout sealer to protect against mildew and staining.
8. Final waterproofing check. Run the shower for 10 minutes and inspect the niche from outside the shower wall if accessible, or check the ceiling below for any moisture. Look for grout discoloration or water seeping from edges. Address any issues now before they become wall damage. Once verified dry, the niche is ready for use.