Install a Tub Spout

A dripping tub spout wastes water and chips away at porcelain. Most homeowners live with it for months before realizing the fix takes fifteen minutes. The spout connects to a copper stub-out inside the wall, held by either a setscrew underneath or threaded directly onto the pipe. Knowing which type you have determines your approach. The hardest part is often just getting the old one off without marring the tile. Done right, a new spout stops the drip, improves water pressure to the showerhead, and gives the tub wall a clean finish line. This job requires no plumbing experience beyond recognizing a hex wrench. You will need to match your new spout to your existing connection type, measure the stub-out length, and work carefully around finished surfaces. The work happens entirely outside the wall. No soldering, no pipe cutting, no mess beyond a little plumber's putty residue.

1. Identify your spout type and measure the stub-out. Look underneath the existing spout for a small hole indicating a setscrew, or check for a visible seam where the spout meets the wall suggesting threads. Use a flashlight to see clearly. If there is a setscrew, it is a slip-on type; if not, it threads onto the pipe. Measure from the wall surface to the end of the pipe stub with a ruler or tape measure. Write this measurement down.
2. Remove the old spout. For setscrew types, insert the hex wrench into the hole underneath and turn counterclockwise until loose, then slide the spout off the pipe. For threaded spouts, grip the spout body with a pipe wrench or channel locks wrapped in a rag to protect the finish, then turn counterclockwise. If stuck, apply penetrating oil around the base and wait ten minutes before trying again.
3. Clean the pipe stub and inspect for damage. Wipe the exposed pipe with a rag to remove old plumber's putty, mineral deposits, or corrosion. Check the stub for cracks, excessive wear, or threads that look stripped. The pipe should extend three-quarters to one inch from the wall for slip-on spouts, slightly less for threaded. If the pipe is damaged or too short, you will need a plumber to replace the stub-out before proceeding.
4. Apply plumber's putty or thread sealant. For slip-on spouts, roll a thin rope of plumber's putty and press it around the pipe stub near the wall to create a seal between spout and tile. For threaded spouts, wrap the pipe threads clockwise with three layers of thread seal tape, overlapping by half with each wrap, or apply pipe thread sealant according to the tube directions. Do not use putty on threaded connections.
5. Install the new spout. For slip-on types, slide the spout onto the pipe until it sits flush against the wall, aligning the diverter lever or spout opening downward. Tighten the setscrew with the hex wrench until snug but not overtightened. For threaded spouts, thread the spout onto the pipe by hand, turning clockwise, then use a pipe wrench for the final quarter turn until tight against the wall. Wipe away excess putty that squeezes out.
6. Test for leaks and adjust diverter. Turn on the tub faucet and let water run for thirty seconds. Check around the base of the spout where it meets the wall for any drips or seepage. If the spout has a diverter for the shower, pull it up to redirect water and ensure it holds pressure without leaking at the connection. If water leaks, tighten the setscrew another quarter turn or apply more thread sealant and reinstall.
7. Clean up and check alignment. Wipe down the spout and surrounding tile with a damp cloth to remove fingerprints, putty residue, and water spots. Verify the spout points straight down into the tub and sits level against the wall with no visible gaps. Run water one more time to confirm no drips from underneath or at the wall junction.