How to Install a Recessed Medicine Cabinet

Installing a recessed medicine cabinet transforms a bathroom from cluttered to composed. Unlike surface-mounted cabinets that jut into your space, recessed units disappear into the wall, giving you actual storage without sacrificing the feeling of openness. The catch is that you're cutting into your drywall and framing, so precision matters—measure twice, cut once, and the cabinet will sit flush and level for years. The job sits at the comfortable middle of home improvement: not hard enough to require a contractor, but involved enough that rushing through it shows. You'll need to locate studs, cut a clean opening, potentially add blocking between studs if the cabinet doesn't fit the standard spacing, and secure it so it doesn't shift. Get this right and you've added real functionality. Rush it and you'll be looking at visible gaps, a tilted door, or a cabinet that won't close properly.

1. Find studs and mark the cabinet opening. Use a stud finder to locate the studs in your bathroom wall. Most recessed cabinets are designed to fit between studs (typically 16 inches apart). Hold the cabinet template against the wall at your desired height—usually 48-60 inches from the floor to the center—and mark the outline with a pencil. Double-check that the opening falls between studs and doesn't hit any plumbing or electrical lines behind the wall.
2. Cut the drywall opening. Put on a dust mask and safety glasses. Use a drywall saw or rotary tool to cut along your marked lines. Start with a pilot hole in one corner, then carefully cut the perimeter. Keep the blade perpendicular to the wall surface to avoid angling into the studs. Once you've cut three sides, support the cutout piece as you finish the fourth side so it doesn't fall and damage the opening edges.
3. Install backing supports or verify existing framing. Look at the studs flanking your opening. If your cabinet width spans exactly between two studs with room to spare, you may not need additional blocking. If not, measure from the back of your drywall to where the cabinet needs to sit, and install horizontal 2×4 blocks between the studs at the top and bottom of the opening. Secure them with 2.5-inch screws into the studs. The cabinet will screw into these blocks, so they need to be rock-solid.
4. Position the cabinet and check for level. Carefully lift the cabinet into the opening from the front. Slide it straight in until the back touches the wall studs or backing blocks. Place a level on top of the cabinet and on each side to check for level and plumb in all directions. Install shims behind the cabinet frame where needed to dial in level. Don't overtighten yet—you want it sitting properly first.
5. Secure the cabinet to the wall. Once the cabinet is level and plumb, drill pilot holes through the mounting flanges or brackets (usually pre-drilled) into the studs or blocking behind. Use the screws specified in your cabinet's installation instructions—typically 2.5-inch structural screws or cabinet screws. Tighten them firmly but don't overdrive; you want the cabinet held tight without stripping the threads or warping the frame.
6. Trim the edges and finish gaps. Once the cabinet is secured, check all gaps between the cabinet frame and the drywall. Small gaps (less than 1/8 inch) can be caulked with paintable caulk. Larger gaps need to be trimmed back or built up with drywall compound and tape, then sanded smooth. This is where the installation either looks finished or looks amateur, so spend time here. If you need trim pieces, install them now before painting.
7. Paint, install shelves, and hang the door. If interior walls need paint, do that now before installing adjustable shelves. Let paint dry fully. Install any shelves according to the cabinet's instructions—most use pegs or brackets. Finally, hang the mirror door by setting the hinges into the pre-mortised slots and securing with the provided screws. Open and close the door several times to ensure it swings freely and closes smoothly without binding.