Install Bedroom Wall Sconces

Bedside wall sconces free up nightstand space and provide focused reading light without the tangle of cords. The installation itself is straightforward electrical work — cutting into drywall, fishing wire, making connections — but the planning matters more than most people expect. Mount sconces too high and the light pools on the ceiling. Too low and you're reading in shadow. Too far apart and one person reads while the other tries to sleep in a spotlight. The difference between adequate and excellent comes down to three measurements: height from the mattress top, distance from the headboard edge, and how far the shade sits from the wall. Get those right and the rest is methodical work.

1. Get the Height Right. Measure 18 to 24 inches above the top of your mattress to center each sconce. Mark these spots 6 to 12 inches out from the headboard edges, depending on bed width. Use a stud finder to locate framing and map your wire route from the nearest power source — either an existing outlet below or a switch box you'll install. Aim for a route that minimizes drywall cuts and avoids studs where possible.
2. Kill Power First. Shut off the breaker for the circuit you're tapping into and test the outlet or switch with a non-contact voltage tester. Use the circuit tester on multiple outlets in the room to confirm you've killed the right breaker. Tape over the breaker switch and put a note on it — you'll be making multiple trips to the panel.
3. Cut and Mount Boxes. Use the old-work box as a template to trace your cutouts at the marked sconce locations. Cut carefully with a drywall saw, checking for obstructions as you go. If you hit blocking or a wire, stop and relocate the box slightly. Install old-work electrical boxes rated for fixture weight at both locations, tightening the wings until they grip firmly against the back of the drywall.
4. Fish the Wire Through. Fish 14/2 or 12/2 Romex from your power source to the first sconce location, leaving 8 inches of wire extending from the box. Continue from that box to the second sconce location with another cable run. If you're installing a new switch, run cable from the power source to the switch box first, then from switch to sconces. Use a fish tape or glow rods for longer runs through walls and drill through studs where necessary with a spade bit.
5. Connect the Wires. Strip half an inch of insulation from each wire and connect black to black, white to white, and ground to ground using wire nuts. If you're wiring through a switch, the black wire from the power source connects to one terminal, and the black wire to the sconces connects to the other terminal. Fold the connected wires neatly into each box and secure them with electrical tape around the wire nut base.
6. Mount the Sconces. Install the mounting bracket or crossbar included with each sconce, securing it to the junction box with the provided screws. Connect the sconce's wires to the house wires using the same color-matching method, making sure the ground wire from the fixture connects to both the house ground and the box ground screw. Tuck wires into the box and position the sconce base flat against the wall.
7. Power Up and Test. Screw in the recommended bulb wattage for each fixture and attach any glass shades or diffusers according to the manufacturer's instructions. Restore power at the breaker and test the switch. Check that both sconces illuminate evenly and that the switch controls them properly. Turn them off and feel the base of each fixture after five minutes to ensure there's no excessive heat from a poor connection.
8. Finish and Paint. If you created access holes elsewhere in the wall for wire fishing, patch them with drywall compound and sand smooth once dry. Touch up paint around the sconce bases to cover any ragged drywall edges. Install switch plate covers and wipe down the sconce surfaces to remove installation dust and fingerprints.