Installing a Subway Tile Backsplash

Subway tile has stayed in kitchens for over a century because it works. Clean lines, affordable, forgiving of imperfect walls, and honest about what it is—these tiles sit between your stovetop and cabinetry like they belong there. Installing a backsplash yourself isn't a finicky job. The real work is prep: getting your surface flat enough, establishing a level baseline so your pattern doesn't creep upward as you work, and spacing tiles consistently. Once that's done, you're spreading mortar and pressing tiles home. Most people finish this in a Saturday. The work feels slower than tiling a floor only because you're standing and reaching above your head, not because the steps are any harder.

1. Prepare and Clean the Wall. Remove outlets and switch plates. Clean the wall thoroughly with a degreaser to cut through cooking residue and dust—use a sponge, not just a cloth. Let it dry completely. If the wall is textured or uneven, sand it smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. The surface doesn't need to be flawless, but any bumps larger than 1/8 inch will prevent tiles from sitting flat.
2. Establish a Level Baseline. Use a level to find where your tiles will sit. Most backsplashes start 4 to 6 inches above the countertop (adjust based on your stovetop height). Mark this line across the wall with a pencil, checking level every 12 inches. Screw a perfectly level wooden batten along this line—this is your guide. Your tiles will rest on this batten as you work, keeping everything plumb and preventing creep.
3. Map Your Layout. Lay out dry tiles on your countertop to determine spacing and cuts. Measure your wall width and work backward from the center or corners to figure where cuts will land. The goal is to avoid thin slivers at edges. Mark the center point of your backsplash area on the wall above the batten. Snap a vertical chalk line here if your wall is wider than 3 feet.
4. Mix and Apply Thin-Set Mortar. Mix thin-set mortar per package directions—it should be the consistency of peanut butter, spreadable but not soupy. Using a 1/4-inch square-notch trowel, spread a layer of mortar onto the wall about 3 feet wide and 2 feet tall, holding the trowel at a 45-degree angle to create uniform ridges. Work in manageable sections so mortar doesn't set before you tile it.
5. Press Tiles and Maintain Spacing. Press the first tile firmly onto the mortar with a slight twisting motion, then place spacers (typically 1/8 or 3/16 inch) on two adjacent sides. Continue across the row, using spacers between every tile. Check frequently with a level to catch any tiles tilting out of plane. Use the running bond pattern—offset each new row so tiles stagger like bricks. Work from your center mark outward.
6. Let Mortar Cure Completely. Don't touch the tiles for at least 12 hours, preferably 24. This isn't a guess. Moving or grouting too soon breaks the bond and causes tiles to eventually pop loose. Cover the area loosely with plastic if there's an air conditioner or fan running nearby—moving air can dry mortar unevenly.
7. Apply Grout and Wipe Joints. Mix unsanded grout (for grout lines narrower than 1/8 inch) to a consistency like thick cake batter. Using a grout float held at 45 degrees, force grout into the joints, working diagonally across the tiles. Once the grout begins to set (about 20 minutes), use a damp sponge to wipe excess grout from the tile faces in circular motions. Rinse the sponge frequently. Do a light wipe pass after an hour, then a final pass the next day if haze remains.
8. Seal Grout and Reinstall Outlets. After grout cures fully (check the bag, usually 48-72 hours), apply a grout sealer with a small brush. This prevents water and stains from getting into the grout. Once the sealer dries, reinstall outlet and switch plates. You're done.