How to Install a Kitchen Sink and Cabinet

Installing a kitchen sink and cabinet is the kind of project that changes how a kitchen actually works. You're not just hanging a box on a wall—you're creating the functional center of meal prep, cleanup, and water access. Done well, the cabinet sits perfectly level, the sink doesn't leak, and the plumbing doesn't rattle or drip. Done poorly, you'll know it every time you fill a pot or notice water seeping into the cabinet floor. The work is methodical more than difficult. You'll need to be comfortable with basic carpentry, comfortable turning off water, and willing to spend time getting the cabinet level before you move forward. If your kitchen has existing cabinetry or if the wall framing is compromised, call a general contractor. But for a straightforward install into open wall space with standard plumbing, this is achievable work.

1. Turn Off Water and Clear the Work Area. Locate your main water shut-off valve and turn it clockwise until it stops. Open the nearest faucet to confirm the water is off. Remove everything from inside the cabinet space and clear at least three feet in front of the wall so you have room to work. If you're replacing an old sink, disconnect the supply lines by hand-tightening the coupling nuts, then disconnect the drain trap and remove the old assembly.
2. Locate and Mark the Wall Studs. Use a stud finder to locate the vertical wall studs behind where your cabinet will hang. Mark the center of each stud with a pencil. Most studs are 16 inches on center. Mark at least three studs that will be behind the cabinet back rail—you need multiple fastening points to support the weight of a water-filled sink.
3. Level and Position the Cabinet. Have a helper hold the cabinet against the wall at the correct height (typically 34-36 inches from the floor to the countertop). Use a four-foot level on top of the cabinet to check side-to-side level. Shim under the cabinet feet or use wooden shims against the wall until the cabinet is perfectly level in both directions. Once level, mark the wall at the top and bottom of the cabinet outline with a pencil so you know exactly where it goes.
4. Secure the Cabinet to the Wall Studs. Drive 3-inch wood screws through the cabinet's rear rail into the center of each marked stud. Use at least two screws per stud and at least three studs total. Pre-drill holes if you're using hardwood or if the screws are resisting—a drilled pilot hole prevents splitting and makes driving easier. The cabinet should be rock-solid and not shift when you push on it.
5. Connect the Water Supply Lines. Locate the hot and cold shutoff valves below where your sink will sit. Unscrew the coupling nuts by hand or with an adjustable wrench. Connect the braided stainless steel or chrome supply lines: hot water to the hot valve, cold water to the cold valve. Hand-tighten the couplings first, then use two wrenches—one to hold the valve fitting, one to turn the coupling nut—and tighten a quarter turn more. Snug, not gorilla-tight.
6. Install the Sink Drain Assembly and Connect the Trap. If your sink doesn't have a drain assembly, install one now by applying plumber's putty around the drain opening and screwing the tailpiece assembly from underneath until the collar is tight. Connect the sink's tailpiece to the P-trap using slip-nut couplings. The P-trap should connect to the wall drain stub. Hand-tighten all couplings, then use two wrenches to snug them a quarter turn. Place a bucket underneath before you test—drips are normal while you're adjusting.
7. Seal the Sink and Test for Leaks. Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the underside of the sink rim where it meets the countertop or sink deck. Smooth it with a wet finger. Open the main water shut-off valve slowly and turn the water back on. Fill the sink and let it drain while you watch underneath with a flashlight. Check every connection—supply couplings, tailpiece, and trap. Tighten any connection that drips a quarter turn at a time until it stops weeping.
8. Install the Sink Strainer and Test Full Function. If your sink has a basket strainer, apply plumber's putty to the underside, press it into the drain hole, and tighten the locknut from underneath. Once installed, run the faucet at full flow and let water drain for a minute. Check for leaks again underneath. Wipe up any drips and let the cabinet dry for an hour before putting items back in. Verify hot and cold water reach full temperature by leaving taps running for 30 seconds.