How to Install New Hinges on Kitchen Cabinets

Kitchen cabinet hinges wear out. Doors sag, won't close properly, or simply squeak every time you open them. The good news is replacing hinges is straightforward work that doesn't require a contractor or special skills—just a screwdriver, patience, and a level. This is one of those projects that transforms how your kitchen feels. A door that hangs true and closes smoothly is the difference between a kitchen that works and one that frustrates you three times a day. Whether your hinges are broken, corroded, or just outdated, new ones will restore that crisp, solid action you remember.

1. Support the Door First. Remove everything from inside the cabinet. Place a wooden block or shim underneath the door to support its weight fully. This prevents the door from sagging during removal and protects your hands and the cabinet frame.
2. Know Your Hinge Type. Examine your current hinges closely. Most kitchen cabinets use cup hinges (also called concealed or Euro hinges) or butt hinges. Cup hinges sit inside a rounded hole on the door face with an arm that connects to the frame. Butt hinges are visible rectangular hinges on the edge of the door. Note how many hinges are installed—most doors have two, but larger or heavier doors may have three.
3. Loosen Adjustment Screws. If your hinges are cup hinges, you'll see small adjustment screws on the hinge arm. Remove these first—don't try to unscrew the entire hinge yet. Cup hinges are mounted with these screws that allow the door to be adjusted left, right, or in and out. Removing them first prevents strain on the frame.
4. Free the Hinge Arm. Now remove the screws that hold the hinge arm to the cabinet frame. These are typically two screws per hinge. Remove only one hinge at a time if you have two hinges—this keeps the door stable. Work top to bottom.
5. Detach the Hinge Cup. Once the hinge arm is free from the frame, the door is still supported by your block. Now remove the screws that hold the hinge cup (or hinge plate) to the door itself. Usually there are two or three screws per hinge. The door will remain fully supported by your block, so work methodically and don't rush.
6. Clear the Screw Holes. Inspect the holes in both the door and frame. If holes are filled with old wood filler or damaged, scrape them clean. If you're reusing the old holes (which is standard), a bit of compressed air or a dry cloth removes dust and debris that prevents proper seating of the new hinge.
7. Set the Hinge Cup. Position the new hinge cup in the same location as the old one. If you're using the existing holes, align the cup and insert screws. For cup hinges, the cup goes into the recessed hole on the door face. Hand-tighten first, then use your screwdriver to set them firmly—snug but not over-tightened, which can strip the holes.
8. Secure the Hinge Arm. Have a helper hold the door in position against the frame, or prop it carefully so the hinge cup arm lines up with the mounting holes on the frame. Align the hinge arm and insert screws. Tighten firmly so the hinge is solid but allow for the hinge to still pivot smoothly.
9. Mount the Second Hinge. Repeat steps 7 and 8 for the second hinge. Position it the same distance from the bottom of the door as the first hinge is from the top. For three-hinge doors, the third hinge is centered between the top and bottom hinges. Consistency in placement is critical for door alignment.
10. Test Door Swing. Carefully lower the door onto the support block. It should hang freely without binding on the frame or adjacent doors. Open and close the door slowly. It should swing smoothly and close with a soft catch, not a slam or hesitation. Look at the gap between the door and frame—it should be even on all sides, typically about 1/8 inch.
11. Dial In Door Alignment. If the door doesn't hang straight, adjustment screws on cup hinges allow you to move the door left, right, or in and out. Most cup hinges have three adjustment points. Loosen the appropriate adjustment screw slightly, move the door to the correct position, and retighten. Make small movements—typically a quarter turn of the adjustment screw moves the door noticeably. Test after each adjustment.
12. Verify Full Door Action. Once the door hangs properly and swings freely, remove the wooden support block underneath. Open and close the door fully several times. It should close smoothly and latch securely without slamming, binding, or rubbing on the adjacent cabinet or frame.