How to Install an Under-Cabinet Range Hood

Installing an under-cabinet range hood is one of the highest-return kitchen upgrades you can do yourself. It eliminates cooking smoke, steam, and odor at the source—which means cleaner walls, fresher air, and a kitchen that doesn't smell like last night's dinner at breakfast. The work is straightforward: you're mounting a box under an existing cabinet, venting it, and plugging it in. What matters is getting the measurements right, running ductwork cleanly (or choosing recirculation if ducting isn't possible), and making sure the electrical work is safe. This guide assumes you have a cabinet in place and either access to exterior wall for ducting or a willingness to use a charcoal filter system.

1. Measure and Mark the Cabinet. Locate the stud layout inside your cabinet using a stud finder through the bottom surface. Mark the center of two studs on the underside of the cabinet where you'll mount the hood brackets—typically 24 to 28 inches apart. Measure from the stovetop surface to the bottom of your cabinet; most codes require 24-30 inches clearance (check your local code and hood manual). Mark this height on both sides of the hood location with a pencil.
2. Install Mounting Brackets. Position the mounting brackets (supplied with the hood) at the marks you made, aligned horizontally. Drill pilot holes through the bracket holes into the cabinet studs using a drill bit slightly smaller than your fastener diameter. Secure each bracket with the provided bolts or lag screws, tightening firmly but not over-torquing. Do not attach the hood unit yet—just the brackets.
3. Hang and Secure the Hood Unit. With a helper, lift the hood unit and align its mounting rail or hooks with the installed brackets. Slide or bolt the hood onto the brackets according to the manufacturer's design. Tighten all hardware fully. Check that the unit is level front-to-back and side-to-side, and that it sits at the correct height above your cooktop.
4. Run Ductwork or Install Recirculation Filter. For ducting: Measure from the hood outlet to your exterior wall or roof penetration point. Use rigid or flexible ductwork (rigid is more efficient but harder to route). Connect the hood outlet to the first duct section with hose clamps or duct tape, then run the duct to the outside, securing it every 2-3 feet with straps. Seal all joints with duct tape or mastic. For recirculation: Skip ducting and insert the charcoal filter cartridge into the hood's intake, following the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Wire to a Dedicated Circuit. Turn off power at the main panel. Run a new 14-gauge or 12-gauge wire (depending on hood amperage—check the spec sheet) from a dedicated breaker to the hood location inside the cabinet. Strip and connect the black (hot), white (neutral), and bare copper (ground) wires to the corresponding terminals in the hood's junction box using wire nuts, securing them tightly. Cap any unused wires. Turn power back on at the breaker and test the hood before closing the cabinet.
6. Seal Cabinet Gaps. Apply painter's tape around the perimeter where the hood bracket meets the cabinet bottom. Run a bead of paintable caulk or foam sealant along the gap to prevent steam and smoke from entering the cabinet interior. Smooth with a wet finger or caulk tool. Remove tape before caulk dries. This step prevents moisture damage to your cabinet's interior.
7. Install or Adjust Range Hood Trim and Finish. If your hood includes trim rings, light kits, or downdraft extensors, install them according to the manual. Secure any ducting connections inside the cabinet if visible. Wipe down the hood exterior with a dry cloth. Run the hood on low for 5 minutes to check for unusual noise, vibration, or duct leaks—look for any visible air seeping around connections.