How to Install Vinyl Plank Flooring

Vinyl plank flooring has revolutionized the DIY renovation market, offering the look of hardwood with the resilience of plastic. The 'floating' nature of these floors means they don't get glued or nailed to the subfloor, but rather lock together like a giant jigsaw puzzle. When done well, the result is a seamless, waterproof surface that breathes with the temperature changes of your home. Success starts long before you open the first box. The subfloor must be perfectly level and free of debris, as any high spot will eventually cause the locking mechanism to fail. Take your time with the layout and measurements; a single crooked row will throw off the entire room, making it impossible to close the final gaps.

  1. Flatten Every Inch. Remove all old floor coverings and baseboards. Use a long level to check for high or low spots, grinding down protrusions or filling dips with floor patch compound.
  2. Seal the Foundation. Roll out your foam underlayment across the room, butting the edges tightly together without overlapping. Secure the seams with moisture-resistant tape.
  3. Map Before Locking. Measure the width of the room and divide by the width of a plank to ensure your final row isn't a tiny sliver. Stagger the end joints of your planks by at least 8 inches to ensure structural stability.
  4. Start Straight and Square. Place spacers along the wall to maintain a 1/4-inch expansion gap. Connect the first row of planks end-to-end, locking the tongue into the groove.
  5. Click and Seat Tight. Insert the long edge of the new plank into the previous row at a 30-degree angle and push down until it clicks. Use a tapping block and mallet to gently seat the joints if they don't drop in easily.
  6. Custom Cuts Without Hassle. Use a utility knife to score the vinyl plank firmly and snap it cleanly. For cuts around door casings or odd shapes, use a jigsaw or multi-tool.
  7. Hide the Breathing Room. Remove the perimeter spacers and install baseboards or quarter-round molding to cover the expansion gap. Nail the trim into the wall, never into the flooring itself.