How to Replace a Kitchen Sink Faucet

Replacing a kitchen faucet ranks among the most satisfying plumbing jobs a homeowner can do themselves. It looks harder than it is—mostly because you're working upside-down in a dark cabinet—but the actual mechanics are straightforward: disconnect old water lines, unbolt the faucet, drop in the new one, and reconnect. You don't need to be a plumber. What matters is taking your time, keeping track of what came off in what order, and being methodical about which valve does what. A leaking faucet that won't stop, constant dripping, or one that's corroded and stiff usually signals time for a replacement anyway. The payoff is immediate: a faucet that works like it should, maybe with a sprayer you actually want to use, and the knowledge that you did the work yourself.

1. Stop Water Before You Start. Locate the shutoff valves under the sink—there should be two, one for hot and one for cold. Turn both clockwise until they stop. If you can't find them or they're stuck, shut off the main water supply to the house. Open the faucet at the sink and let any remaining water drain out. Do not skip this step, no matter what.
2. Free the Old Water Lines. Place a bucket under the connections. Using two adjustable wrenches—one to hold the fitting still, one to turn the nut—disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the faucet. Work slowly and let any water still trapped in the lines drain into the bucket. Keep the lines pointed downward so water drains out, not into the cabinet.
3. Release the Spray Hose. If your faucet has a pull-down or pull-out sprayer, locate where the hose connects at the base of the faucet. Unscrew the fitting by hand or with an adjustable wrench, then pull the hose down through the sink hole to free it. Set it aside.
4. Unbolt from Below. Lie on your back under the sink with a flashlight. Look for the large nuts at the base of the faucet—usually three to four of them, holding it to the sink from below. Using an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench (a specialized wrench designed for this exact job), turn each nut counterclockwise until loose. As they come free, support the faucet from above with your other hand so it doesn't fall and break the sink. Remove all nuts and set them aside; you'll likely need new ones with your new faucet.
5. Pull Out the Old Faucet. Once all the mounting nuts are free, push the faucet up from below and lift it out through the top of the sink. It should come free easily. If it's stuck, check that you've disconnected all supply lines and removed all mounting nuts. Clean any old putty, mineral deposits, or corrosion from the sink surface where the faucet was seated using a plastic scraper or old credit card—don't gouge the sink.
6. Verify Hole Compatibility. Wipe down the sink deck with a damp cloth. Check the number and size of holes needed for your new faucet. If your new faucet uses fewer holes than the old one, you'll need blanking plates or trim rings to cover the unused holes. If it needs more holes, most sinks can be drilled at a home center if you bring them in, or you can do it yourself with a carbide hole saw rated for your sink material. Line up the new faucet over the holes to verify fit before proceeding.
7. Attach New Supply Lines. Most new faucets come with flexible braided supply lines and new mounting hardware. Screw the hot and cold water supply lines onto the faucet's inlets—hand-tight first, then snug with a wrench. Don't over-tighten; you'll crack the fitting inside the faucet. If your old supply lines are corroded or stiff, replace them with new ones of the same length and thread size.
8. Guide Faucet Into Place. Have someone help you guide the faucet down through the sink holes from above, or do it slowly by yourself. Make sure the spray hose (if there is one) goes down first and doesn't get pinched. Center the faucet so it sits evenly on the sink deck. The underside should be accessible from below without the faucet body hitting the sink basin or any pipes.
9. Bolt Faucet Securely. Reach underneath and thread the new mounting nuts onto the studs protruding from the faucet base. Tighten by hand first, then use your basin wrench or adjustable wrench to snug them down evenly—alternate between nuts if there are more than two so the faucet seats level. Don't over-tighten; snug is enough. The faucet should not rock or shift on the sink deck.
10. Reconnect the Sprayer. Thread the spray hose back down through its hole and reconnect it to the connection port at the base of the faucet. Screw it on by hand, then snug it with a wrench. Give the hose a gentle tug to make sure it's secure. Make sure the hose doesn't kink or rest against anything sharp inside the cabinet.
11. Restore Water Supply. Working from underneath, connect the hot water supply line to the hot inlet and the cold water line to the cold inlet. Use two wrenches again—one to hold the inlet fitting steady, one to tighten the supply line nut. Tighten firmly but not with extreme force; you want a seal, not a crushed fitting. Hand-tighten first, then snug with the wrench.
12. Check for Leaks Now. Open the shutoff valves slowly—turn them counterclockwise until they stop, do not force them. Let water flow back into the lines for a few seconds, then turn on the faucet at the sink. Run both hot and cold water for 30 seconds to clear air from the lines. Check underneath for any leaks at the connection points, around the spray hose attachment, and at the mounting studs. If you see water dripping, turn the water off, tighten that connection a quarter-turn, and test again.
13. Test and Celebrate. Test the sprayer pull-down, check that both handles turn smoothly, and make sure water temperature feels right. If water pressure seems low on hot water, check that your hot water shutoff valve is fully open. Clean any dust or debris from inside the cabinet. Wipe down the new faucet with a soft cloth to remove fingerprints, then step back and admire your work.