How to Install a Recessed Medicine Cabinet

Recessed medicine cabinets are the closest thing to a storage miracle in a small bathroom. They disappear into the wall, keeping clutter off counters and out of sight while making the whole room feel larger. The installation itself is straightforward work—you're essentially cutting a hole, sliding a box into it, and finishing the edges—but the location and framing matter. Get this right and you have a clean, professional look. Rush it and you'll be staring at gaps and crooked trim every time you brush your teeth.

1. Map the studs and boundaries. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs on either side of your intended cabinet location. Mark the horizontal center line at mirror height (typically 48–54 inches from the floor). Measure your cabinet's rough opening width and mark the vertical boundaries, ensuring the opening falls entirely between two studs with at least 1.5 inches of clearance on each side.
2. Cut a clean opening. Using a drywall saw or rotary tool with a cutting bit, drill a starter hole at one corner of your marked outline, then carefully cut along the lines. Take your time—a clean opening means easier cabinet installation and better-looking trim later. Remove the drywall patch and set it aside; you'll use the scraps for patching.
3. Check for hidden obstacles. Reach into the opening and feel for pipes, wires, or blocking between the studs. If you find electrical wiring, turn off power to that circuit and carefully reroute it away from the cabinet opening. If plumbing or major wiring blocks the space, choose a different location rather than compromise safety.
4. Secure the cabinet flush. Slide the cabinet into the opening so the flange sits flush against the wall surface. Ensure it's level both horizontally and vertically using a level on the cabinet's top edge and sides. Once level, drive 1.5-inch cabinet screws through the pre-drilled holes in the frame into the studs on either side. Typically you'll have two screw locations per side.
5. Tape and coat the seams. Cut drywall patches from your removed piece to fill any gaps between the cabinet flange and the wall opening. Apply drywall scraps along the edges and tape over all seams with joint tape. Apply a thin layer of joint compound over the tape, feathering it out 6 inches on all sides. Let it dry completely (usually 24 hours).
6. Sand smooth and prime. Once the compound is fully dry, sand the patched area smooth with 120-grit sandpaper, working in circular motions and feathering the edges so transitions are invisible. Wipe away dust with a damp sponge. Apply primer to the bare compound and any raw drywall edges, then paint to match the wall.
7. Hang mirror and shelves. Once paint is dry, hang the mirror on the inside of the cabinet door using the provided hardware or a quality adhesive strip. Install any included shelves into the slots or brackets inside the cabinet. Load it carefully—a recessed cabinet can feel sturdy but will sag if overloaded with heavy bottles and containers.
8. Caulk edges for polish. For a polished look, apply paintable caulk along the seam where the cabinet flange meets the wall, smoothing it with a wet finger. Alternatively, install trim molding if your cabinet design calls for it. Either method hides small imperfections and gives the installation a finished, intentional appearance.