How to Paint Interior Walls

Painting interior walls is the single most effective way to change a room. A fresh coat of paint costs less than almost any other renovation, takes a weekend to complete, and requires no special skills—just patience and attention to the prep work. The difference between a painted room that looks professional and one that looks amateur isn't the paint itself; it's the preparation. Wall damage, dust, and poor surface prep show through new paint like a stain on fresh snow. Done right, a painted room has clean edges, even coverage, and a finish that lasts. Done carelessly, you'll see brush marks, drips, and thin spots within a year.

1. Clear the Space First. Move all furniture to the center of the room and cover it with plastic sheeting or old sheets. Remove wall hangings, outlet covers, light switch plates, and curtain rods. Lay drop cloths over the entire floor, overlapping them slightly and taping the edges down. Open windows and doors for ventilation. Turn off the power to the room at the breaker if you're removing outlet covers.
2. Fill Every Flaw. Walk the perimeter of the room in good light and mark any holes, dents, water stains, or cracks with a pencil. For small holes (nail holes, picture hangers), use spackling compound. For cracks wider than 1/8 inch or large holes, use paintable caulk or joint compound depending on the damage type. Apply with a putty knife, overfilling slightly, then smooth flush with the wall. Let dry per product instructions—usually 1 to 2 hours for spackle, longer for joint compound.
3. Make It Seamless. Once patched areas are completely dry, sand them with 120-grit sandpaper until they're flush with the surrounding wall. Wipe away dust with a damp sponge or tack cloth. If the patch is now lower than the wall surface, apply a second thin layer of compound, let it dry, and sand again. Repeat until the surface is perfectly smooth and level with the wall.
4. Clean Down to Bare. Wipe down all walls with a damp sponge or cloth to remove dust, cobwebs, and surface grime. Pay special attention to corners, along the baseboards, and around light fixtures. If walls are glossy or have a matte finish that's been fingerprinted heavily, lightly sand them with 120-grit sandpaper to dull the surface so primer and paint adhere better. Wipe with a tack cloth after sanding.
5. Tape the Edges Tight. Run painter's tape along the top edge where the wall meets the ceiling, along the baseboards, and around all door and window frames. Press the tape firmly along its inner edge with a putty knife so paint can't seep underneath. Tape around outlet boxes and light switches if you haven't removed the plates. Use quality painter's tape—cheap tape lets paint bleed through.
6. Prime When It Matters. Primer is essential if you're painting over water stains, dark colors, or glossy finishes. It's also needed when painting new drywall or after major repairs. Prime the entire room with a roller and brush, using the same cutting-in technique you'll use for paint. One coat of primer is usually enough. Let it dry per the can's instructions—typically 1 to 3 hours.
7. Frame the Walls First. Pour paint into a paint tray. Using a 2-inch angled brush, paint a 2- to 3-inch-wide band along the ceiling line, baseboards, corners, and around all trim. This is called cutting in. Use smooth, deliberate strokes and reload the brush frequently. Maintain a wet edge—don't let the paint dry before you're done with that wall section. Overlap the tape slightly so paint covers right up to the taped line.
8. Roll the Field Smooth. Using a 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch nap roller on an extension pole, apply paint in a zigzag pattern—start at one corner, roll upward in a Z shape, then back down without lifting the roller. Work in sections no larger than 3 by 3 feet. Maintain a wet edge by working quickly enough that you're always blending into partially wet paint. Keep the roller pressure consistent—too light and you'll get thin coverage, too heavy and you'll splatter. Reload the roller frequently.
9. Even the Color Out. Let the first coat dry per the paint can's instructions—typically 2 to 4 hours for latex paint. Cut in the edges again with the brush, then roll the walls again using the same zigzag pattern. The second coat should be thin and even; you're not trying to cover again, you're evening out the color and hiding any thin spots or slight variations from the first coat. Most interior paint requires two coats for professional-looking results.
10. Strip Tape at Peak Tacky. Once the second coat has been on the wall for 15 to 30 minutes—while the paint is still slightly tacky but not wet—carefully pull off all painter's tape at a 45-degree angle, pulling toward the tape itself rather than away from the wall. If you wait until the paint is completely dry, the tape can peel off bits of paint. Start with the tape along the ceiling and work down.
11. Perfect the Finish. Once the paint has dried completely (typically overnight), inspect the room in daylight for drips, thin spots, or areas where tape bleed-through occurred. Use a small brush to touch up any imperfections. Replace outlet covers, light switch plates, curtain rods, and wall hangings. Reinstall any hardware you removed. Let the paint cure for 24 to 48 hours before washing the walls or moving furniture back.
12. Preserve Your Tools. While paint is still wet, rinse rollers and brushes thoroughly with water until the water runs clear. Squeeze out excess water and hang rollers and brushes to dry, or wrap them tightly in plastic bags and refrigerate them if you're painting multiple rooms and want to reuse them. Once the paint is completely dry, carefully fold and remove drop cloths. Vacuum any dust or debris.