How to Adjust Cabinet Door Hinges and Fix Gaps

Cabinet doors that hang crooked, gap unevenly, or rub against the frame are one of the most common complaints about aging cabinets, and fixing them usually takes less time than brewing coffee. The good news is that door misalignment rarely means the hinge is broken—it almost always means the hinge screws have loosened or shifted slightly from years of opening and closing. Understanding how a cabinet hinge actually works—and which screw controls which direction—turns this from frustrating guesswork into a five-minute job. This guide covers the most common hinge type found in residential bathrooms and kitchens: the three-screw adjustable hinge. Whether your gap is on the left, right, top, or bottom, there's a specific adjustment that fixes it without removing the door.

Read the Door First. Stand back and look at the cabinet from straight on. If the top of the door leans away from the cabinet frame, the door needs to move up. If it leans in, the door needs to move down. If there's a gap on the left side, the door needs to shift left. If there's a gap on the right, it needs to shift right. If the door appears twisted or one corner is tight while the opposite corner has a gap, the door is racked and needs front-to-back adjustment. Write down what you see—left gap, right gap, top gap, bottom gap, or twisted—before you start turning any screws.
Prep Your Workspace. You need a screwdriver that fits the hinge screws exactly—usually #2 Phillips or a small slotted driver, depending on your hinge type. Work in good light; a headlamp or phone flashlight pointed at the hinge makes adjustment much easier. Open the cabinet door fully so you can see and reach both the frame-side and door-side screws clearly. Have a small container or cloth nearby to catch any screws you remove.
Find Your Three Screws. Look at the hinge mounted on the inside of the door frame. You'll see three screws: one that mounts the hinge to the cabinet frame (this stays untouched), one that mounts the hinge to the door itself, and one that's the actual adjustment screw. The adjustment screw is usually marked or is in a slightly different location than the mounting screws. On most adjustable hinges, there are two screws visible from this angle—one mounting screw (near the cabinet frame edge) and one adjustment screw (toward the middle of the hinge). Some hinges also have a front-to-back adjustment screw on the side facing you.
Shift Left or Right. The side-to-side adjustment screw is typically the horizontal screw closest to the center of the hinge. Turn this screw clockwise to move the door toward the cabinet (closes a gap on the right side, moves the door left). Turn counterclockwise to move the door away from the cabinet (closes a gap on the left side, moves the door right). Make small quarter-turns and check your progress after each adjustment. The door should move slightly with each turn—if nothing moves, you may be turning the mounting screw instead.
Move Up or Down. The vertical adjustment screw is usually positioned more toward the cabinet frame side of the hinge. Turn this screw clockwise to move the door down (closes a gap at the top). Turn counterclockwise to move the door up (closes a gap at the bottom). Make quarter-turn adjustments and observe the movement. This screw is less sensitive than the side-to-side screw, so it may take a half-turn or full turn to see visible movement. Only adjust one hinge at a time—typically start with the top hinge if both have gaps.
Untwist the Door. If the door appears twisted—one top corner is tight while the bottom corner has a gap, or vice versa—the door is racked. Some hinges have a third adjustment screw that runs front-to-back (perpendicular to the face of the door). This screw is often on the side of the hinge facing you and may have a spring or be harder to access. Turning this screw clockwise typically pulls the door toward you, and counterclockwise pushes it away. Make very small adjustments—a quarter-turn is often enough. Not all hinges have this feature; if you can't find it, the racking may need to be corrected by adjusting both the top and bottom hinges' side-to-side screws in opposite directions.
Check the Frame. If your adjustments aren't closing the gaps evenly, the cabinet frame itself may be warped or the cabinet may not be level. Use a level on the cabinet frame (not just the door). If the frame is tilted, the cabinet itself may need shimming or the wall may be out of plumb. This is beyond a simple hinge adjustment—but knowing the frame is the problem prevents you from chasing your tail with endless hinge turns. If the frame is fine and the door still won't align, one more hinge adjustment is usually the answer—often the middle hinge needs tightening or adjustment if you have three hinges.
Test Full Movement. With all hinge adjustments complete, open and close the door slowly through its full range. The door should swing freely without binding anywhere. The gaps between the door and frame should be even on all sides—typically 1/8 inch is the target, but 3/32 inch to 5/32 inch is acceptable. If you see binding, the door is still slightly racked; a quarter-turn on the front-to-back screw (if available) or a very small adjustment to one of the top or bottom hinges usually fixes it. If gaps are still uneven, repeat the side-to-side or vertical adjustment on the hinge that controls that gap—typically a quarter-turn more in the direction that closes the larger gap.
Lock Everything Down. Once the door is aligned and closing smoothly, go back to each hinge and check that all screws—mounting and adjustment—are snug but not over-tightened. Use steady, firm pressure on your screwdriver. Over-tightening strips the screw holes and makes future adjustment impossible. If you feel significant resistance, stop turning—the screw is tight enough. Some hinges have nylon inserts or springs in the adjustment screw; these feel different and don't require as much force.
Listen for Binding. Open and close the door a final ten times, listening and feeling for any catching or rubbing. If the door binds in just one spot, check whether the frame is bowed or the door itself is warped by placing a straightedge against the door face. If the frame is bowed outward, you may need to adjust the back-to-front screw to pull the door forward slightly in that area. If the door itself is warped, binding usually can't be fully eliminated without replacing the door or doing minor sanding on the hinge-side edge.