Fix a Dripping Bathroom Faucet

A dripping bathroom faucet is one of those small annoyances that compounds into real money—a single drip every few seconds adds up to thousands of gallons per year. More important, it's genuinely fixable. The repair itself is straightforward plumbing work that doesn't require special skills or expensive tools. What matters is understanding which type of faucet you have (compression, ball, cartridge, or ceramic disk) because the disassembly differs, though the principle stays the same: find the worn seal or cartridge, replace it, and reassemble. Most homeowners can handle this in a Saturday morning. You'll save the cost of a plumber and gain confidence with basic water repairs.

1. Stop the Water First. Locate the shutoff valve under the sink—there should be one for hot water and one for cold. Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to release any remaining water pressure in the lines. If the valves under the sink are stuck or absent, you'll need to shut off the main water valve for the house, usually in the basement or crawlspace.
2. Know Your Faucet Type. Look at the faucet handles. Compression faucets have two separate handles (hot and cold) with a screw visible on top. Ball faucets have a single lever over a rounded dome. Cartridge faucets have a single lever but a narrower housing. Ceramic disk faucets have a wide, flat cylindrical base under the spout. This determines which parts you'll replace and how you'll disassemble the faucet.
3. Expose the Handle Screw. For most faucets, there's a small cap or button covering the handle screw. Use a flat-head screwdriver or a plastic pry tool to gently pop it off. For ball or cartridge faucets, the cap is usually on top of the handle. Once the cap is off, you'll see a Phillips or Allen-head screw. Remove it completely and set it aside with the cap.
4. Remove the Handle. With the screw removed, lift the handle straight up. On compression faucets, the handle pulls straight out. On ball and cartridge faucets, the handle may have a small setscrew on the side; loosen that first if it doesn't pull free easily. The handle should come away cleanly without force.
5. Loosen the Collar Nut. Below the handle is a chrome or brass collar nut. Use an adjustable wrench or a faucet-specific wrench (if you have one) to turn it counterclockwise. It doesn't need to come off completely for compression faucets—just loosen it enough to access the stem. For cartridge faucets, you'll remove a cartridge collar or cap piece instead.
6. Pull Out the Stem. For compression faucets, turn the stem (the long threaded shaft) counterclockwise by hand until it comes free—this usually takes 4–6 full rotations. For cartridge faucets, pull the cartridge straight out using a cartridge puller tool or needle-nose pliers; apply steady, even pressure without twisting. For ball faucets, remove the collar and then pull the ball assembly straight up.
7. Swap the Washer. At the base of a compression stem, you'll see a small washer held by a brass screw. Unscrew it, remove the old washer, and slip a new one on (they're typically 7/8-inch or 1/2-inch diameter—bring the old one to the store to match). Replace the screw. You can also replace the O-ring around the stem while you're here; they're inexpensive and often the culprit in secondary leaks. Apply a thin coat of plumber's grease to the new O-ring.
8. Install the New Cartridge. For cartridge and ball faucets, the entire cartridge or ball assembly is the wear component. Take the old part to a plumbing supply shop and match it by model number (printed on the faucet body or cartridge itself) or bring the part itself. Install the new cartridge straight into the housing with the same orientation as the old one—there's usually a small notch or alignment key to ensure it goes in the right way. Push it in firmly until it seats.
9. Put It Back Together. For compression faucets, screw the stem back in by turning it clockwise until it stops (don't force it—it should turn smoothly). Then hand-tighten the packing nut. For cartridge faucets, push the cartridge collar back into place and tighten. For all types, reinstall the handle, tighten the handle screw, and pop the decorative cap back on.
10. Restore Water Pressure Slowly. Open both shutoff valves under the sink by turning them counterclockwise. Go slowly—open each valve a quarter-turn, wait a few seconds, then a half-turn, then full open. This allows air to bleed out of the lines. You may hear sputtering and see brief spurts of water; this is normal. Once water flows smoothly, let it run for 30 seconds to clear the lines.
11. Verify No Leaks Remain. Let the faucet run on both hot and cold for 60 seconds. Stop the flow and observe the base of the faucet, the collar area, and under the sink for any drips. Leaks at the handle indicate the O-ring needs tightening or replacement. Leaks from under the sink suggest a cartridge wasn't seated fully—turn off the water and reseat it. The dripping from the spout itself should be completely gone.
12. Restore Your Space. Wipe down the underside of the sink and the valve area with a dry cloth. If you removed any items to access the shutoff valves, return them to their original positions. Once everything is back in place and you've confirmed no leaks, your repair is complete.