Stop a Dripping Bathroom Faucet

A dripping faucet is one of those small annoyances that quietly costs you money and peace of mind. That rhythmic tap, tap, tap at night. The water stain that won't wash away. The knowledge that somewhere in your walls, water is being wasted. The good news is that faucet repair sits at the sweet spot between simple and satisfying—you don't need special skills or a toolbox full of expensive equipment, but the work feels genuinely consequential. Most bathroom faucets leak because the seals inside have degraded after years of daily use. Whether it's the cartridge that controls water flow, the rubber washers that create a seal, or the O-rings that prevent internal leaks, these parts are inexpensive and replaceable. The trick is identifying which type of faucet you have—ball, cartridge, washer, or ceramic-disk—because each repair approach is slightly different. Once you know what you're working with, the fix itself is straightforward: turn off the water, disassemble the handle, and swap out the worn part. You'll save money on the repair and on your water bill.

1. Know Your Faucet Type. Look at the faucet handle. A single lever that moves side-to-side is a ball faucet. A single lever that pulls up and down is typically a cartridge faucet. Two separate handles—one hot, one cold—usually means a washer faucet or cartridge faucet. Three separate handles with a spout in the middle suggests a more complex cartridge design. If you're unsure, take a photo and search for your faucet brand online, or look under the sink for any identifying marks. Knowing the type determines which parts you'll need and how you'll disassemble it.
2. Kill the Water Flow First. Locate the shutoff valves under the sink. You should see two handles (or knobs or levers) near the pipes coming up from the floor—one labeled hot, one cold. Turn both clockwise until they stop. Test the faucet by turning it on to confirm the water is actually off. If there's no shutoff valve under your sink, you may need to turn off the main water supply to the house, which is usually near the meter or in the basement.
3. Catch Your Tiny Pieces. Place a cloth or strainer in the drain to catch any small parts that might slip out of your hands during disassembly. Springs, screws, and O-rings are easy to lose down a drain and nearly impossible to retrieve. You're protecting both your work and your plumbing.
4. Pop Off the Handle Cap. On most faucets, the handle cap (the decorative piece that covers the handle base) either pries off gently with a flat screwdriver or unscrews by hand. Once the cap is off, you'll see a screw underneath. Remove this screw completely—don't just loosen it. The handle should now slide or pull off. If it's stuck, wiggle it gently side-to-side; don't hammer it. For ball faucets, you may need to remove a collar wrench first—this is a special wrench that came with your faucet or is available at the hardware store for a few dollars.
5. Extract the Worn Cartridge. For cartridge faucets, you'll see a cylindrical piece inside the faucet body. This is the cartridge. It may have a clip or a retaining nut holding it in place. If there's a clip, remove it with pliers. If there's a nut, use an adjustable wrench to unscrew it counterclockwise. Once the clip or nut is off, use a cartridge puller (a specialized tool available for $10–20 at the hardware store) to extract the cartridge straight up. If you don't have a puller, you can carefully use the handle of a hammer or a wooden block, but the puller is worth the money for a clean removal. For washer faucets, turn each handle fully to the off position, then use a screwdriver to access the packing nut below the handle—unscrew it and you'll expose the stem and washer.
6. Examine the Culprit. Hold the cartridge or washer up to the light. If it's a cartridge, look for cracks, wear patterns, or discoloration. If it's a washer, the rubber should be intact and flexible—if it's hard, crumbly, or flattened, that's your problem. Also look at the O-rings on the cartridge—these are the small rubber rings around the outside. If they're damaged or missing, they're likely the culprit. Take a photo of the part to bring to the hardware store. They can match it to a replacement kit, which typically includes the cartridge or washer plus a set of new O-rings and seals.
7. Wipe the Interior Clean. While the cartridge is out, you have a clear view of the faucet's interior. Use a clean cloth to wipe out any mineral deposits, debris, or corrosion. If there's heavy buildup, a small brush or old toothbrush works well. Mineral deposits from hard water can prevent a new cartridge from sealing properly, so this step matters. Pay special attention to the seating surface where the cartridge sits—it should be smooth and clean. If you find significant corrosion or pitting on the seating surface, the faucet body itself may be damaged and might need replacement.
8. Seat the New Part. If you're replacing the cartridge, make sure you have the exact replacement for your faucet model—different brands use incompatible cartridges. Slide the new cartridge into the faucet body, aligning it with the orientation you marked on the old one. If there's a retaining nut or clip, install it now and tighten it firmly but not so hard that you crack anything. For washer faucets, install the new washer on the stem, then screw the packing nut back down until it's snug. Check your hardware store kit for new O-rings or seals—if included, apply a thin layer of plumber's grease to them before installation; this helps them seat properly.
9. Put the Handle Back. Slide the handle back onto the faucet body, making sure it aligns with the cartridge slot. Insert the screw and tighten it snugly but not so hard that you strip it. Replace the decorative cap—it should snap or screw back on easily. For ball faucets, reinstall the collar wrench first, then the cap. Test the handle movement by turning it on and off a few times. It should move smoothly and feel tight at the off position.
10. Restore Water Flow Slowly. Turn the shutoff valves counterclockwise slowly—don't just crank them open all at once. Open them three-quarters of the way initially, then gradually open them fully. As water comes back into the lines, you may hear a brief rush of air or see some sputtering—this is normal. Let water run from the faucet for 30 seconds to flush out any air in the lines. Check under the sink for any leaks around the shutoff valves or the faucet base.
11. Run the Final Leak Check. Turn the faucet handle to full hot, then full cold, then to the off position several times. Watch the spout—it should stop dripping immediately when you turn it off. Leave the faucet off for a full minute and look for any drips. If there's still a slow drip, give the cartridge another minute to fully seat; sometimes a new cartridge needs a brief break-in period. If it's still dripping after a few minutes, turn the shutoff valves off again and check that you installed the cartridge in the correct orientation. Also inspect the area under the sink—check for any water dripping from the faucet body or the connections. A tiny weep is normal in the first few minutes, but steady dripping means something isn't sealed correctly.
12. Clear Away the Mess. Remove the cloth from the sink drain. Dispose of the old cartridge or washer in the trash—most hardware stores don't accept them for recycling. Dry the area under the sink and replace any items you removed to access the shutoff valves. Run the faucet one more time and make sure everything looks dry.