Fix a Dripping Bathroom Faucet

A steady drip from your bathroom faucet isn't just annoying—it wastes water and money. That sound at two in the morning becomes real when you realize you're paying for water that's going nowhere. The good news is that fixing a faucet is one of the most straightforward repairs in the house. The mechanism is simple, the parts are cheap, and you almost certainly have the tools already. Whether it's a compression faucet (the kind with two handles), a single-handle ball faucet, or a cartridge faucet, the repair follows the same logic: find what's worn, replace it, and test. Most of the time, you're looking at a rubber washer that's cracked or compressed from years of use. Sometimes it's the cartridge itself. Either way, this is a win-condition repair—quick, visible results, and you'll feel competent afterward.

1. Shut Off the Water First. Look under the sink for the shutoff valves on the hot and cold lines. Turn both clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to release any remaining pressure in the lines. If you can't find shutoff valves under the sink, you may need to use the main water shutoff for the house, which is usually in the basement or garage.
2. Know Your Faucet Type. Look at the handles. Two separate handles (hot and cold) means you likely have a compression faucet. A single handle that moves side-to-side is a ball faucet. A single handle that pulls straight up is a cartridge faucet. This determines which parts you'll need. Cartridge faucets are most common in modern bathrooms. Take a photo of the faucet from the side and front so you can match parts at the hardware store if needed.
3. Pop Off the Handle. For single-handle faucets, look for a small set screw under the handle or hidden under a decorative cap. Pry off any cap with a flat screwdriver, then use an Allen wrench or screwdriver to remove the screw. Pull the handle straight off. For two-handle faucets, you'll do this for each handle individually. Keep the screw in a small container so it doesn't disappear.
4. Unscrew the Packing Nut. Under the handle you'll see a hexagonal nut (the packing nut). Use an adjustable wrench or basin wrench to grip it and turn counterclockwise. You may need to turn it several full rotations. Once it's loose enough, you can usually unscrew it by hand. This exposes the cartridge or valve stem underneath.
5. Pull Out the Old Cartridge. For a cartridge faucet, you'll see a plastic or metal cartridge. Use a cartridge puller (a two-pronged tool) to grip the cartridge and pull straight up. For a compression faucet, unscrew the stem by turning it counterclockwise with a screwdriver or stem wrench. Pull it straight out. Set it on the towel. This is where you'll find the worn washer or O-ring.
6. Swap In the New Part. For a compression faucet, you'll see a small rubber washer at the bottom of the stem held by a brass screw. This washer is almost certainly the culprit. Replace it with an identical new washer from your hardware store. For a cartridge faucet, replace the entire cartridge with a new one matching your faucet brand. Insert the new cartridge straight into the hole and press it down until it seats. You'll hear a small click when it's properly seated.
7. Put It Back Together. Put the packing nut back on and tighten it with the wrench until snug—not overtightened. Reinstall the handle and tighten the set screw. Slide any decorative cap back into place. Everything should be hand-tight plus a quarter turn with tools. Overtightening causes leaks and makes future repairs harder.
8. Confirm the Drip Is Gone. Turn both shutoff valves counterclockwise slowly. Open the faucet fully to let any air out of the lines. Turn the water on and off a few times, watching for drips at the base of the spout and under the sink. Run the water for thirty seconds on both hot and cold. If there's no drip after five minutes of running, the fix worked. Check under the sink one more time for any leaks from the connections.