Fix a Dripping Bathroom Faucet

A dripping bathroom faucet is one of those problems that feels small until you realize it's costing you money and sanity. That steady drip-drip-drip wastes thousands of gallons a year and announces itself at 3 a.m. The good news is simple: the problem lives inside the faucet body, and the fix is straightforward. Whether your faucet is a compression type (two handles) or a cartridge type (single handle), the solution follows the same logic—find the worn seal, replace it, reassemble. This is honest plumbing work that doesn't require a license, and it teaches you how your faucet actually works. Done right, you'll have a silent, tight faucet again and the satisfaction of knowing exactly how to handle the next one.

1. Kill the Water First. Look under the sink for the shutoff valves. You'll see two small knobs—one for hot water, one for cold. Turn both clockwise until they stop. They should be snug but not forced. If the valves don't exist or won't shut off completely, go to your main water shutoff (usually in the basement, garage, or near the meter) and turn that off. Turn on the faucet to bleed out any remaining pressure in the lines.
2. Know Your Faucet Type. Look at the faucet. If it has two separate handles (one for hot, one for cold), it's a compression faucet. If it has a single handle that moves left-right or up-down, it's a cartridge faucet. This matters because the internal repair is different. Most modern bathroom faucets are cartridge types. Look for any caps or trim rings around the base or handles—these often hide the fastening screws.
3. Access the Fastening Screws. For cartridge faucets, look for a small cap (often colored to match hot or cold) on top of or behind the handle. Pop it off with a flat screwdriver or your fingernail. Underneath is a screw. Remove it and set it in a safe place. For compression faucets with two handles, each handle has a screw under a decorative cap—pry the cap off gently and remove the screw. Keep all fasteners organized in a small container.
4. Expose the Inner Mechanism. Pull the handle straight up and away from the faucet body. It should come free easily once the screw is out. You're now looking at the inner mechanism. On a cartridge faucet, you'll see a cylindrical cartridge sticking up from the body. On a compression faucet, you'll see a stem with a packing nut below the handle. Don't force anything—if it won't come, check that you've removed all fasteners.
5. Unthread the Decorative Collar. Below the handle, there's often a decorative collar or ring. For cartridge faucets, this collar usually unthreads counterclockwise by hand. For compression faucets, you may need a wrench to loosen it. Grip it firmly and turn slowly—these can be tight from mineral deposits. Place it aside carefully so you don't lose it.
6. Remove the Cartridge or Stem. For cartridge faucets: You may see a retaining clip holding the cartridge in place. If so, remove it with pliers. Grasp the cartridge body with a cartridge puller (a specialized tool available at any hardware store for $8–12) or with pliers and pull straight up. It will resist slightly—use steady pressure, not force. For compression faucets: Use a wrench to unscrew the packing nut just below the decorative collar. Once it's loose, unscrew it by hand and lift out the stem.
7. Find the Worn Seal. On a cartridge, look at the rubber seals inside the removed cartridge. They should be smooth and supple. If they're cracked, flattened, or chalky, that's your culprit. On a compression faucet stem, examine the rubber washer at the base (it's held by a small brass screw). If it's shredded, discolored, or doesn't spring back when you press it, it needs replacing. This visual inspection confirms the problem before you buy parts.
8. Install the New Part. For cartridge faucets, install the new cartridge (make sure the orientation is correct—most have a flat side or alignment mark). Push it in firmly until it seats. For compression faucets, remove the small brass screw holding the washer and slide off the old washer. Install the new washer of the same size and diameter, and tighten the screw securely but not over-tight. If the stem also shows corrosion or pitting, replace the entire stem instead of just the washer.
9. Put It Back Together. Reinstall the packing nut or cartridge retaining clip. Hand-tighten, then snug it with a wrench if needed. Thread the decorative collar back on by hand (or wrench if needed). Reinstall the handle, align it correctly (cold to the right, hot to the left, or level depending on design), and tighten the handle screw. Replace the decorative cap. Everything should feel solid but not forced.
10. Verify the Fix Works. Open the shutoff valves slowly under the sink (or your main shutoff if you used that). Turn the faucet handle to both hot and cold positions and let water run for 10 seconds. Check for leaks at any connection points. Watch for drips from the spout. Move the handle through its full range of motion. The faucet should run clean without any hesitation, and the spout should be completely dry when turned off.
11. Monitor for Success. Wipe down the faucet and surrounding area with a dry cloth. Put away your tools and any packaging. Over the next day, check the spout periodically for any new drips and feel under the sink for moisture. A properly executed repair should be bone-dry immediately and stay that way. If a drip reappears after a few hours, the cartridge or washer may not have seated correctly—turn the water off and reseat it.