Fix a Leaky Faucet

A dripping faucet is one of those small problems that feels insignificant until you realize it's wasting water and driving you crazy at night. The sound alone is reason enough to fix it, but beyond that, a single drop per second adds up to thousands of gallons a year. The good news: you don't need a plumber. The failure is almost always a worn internal seal or cartridge, and replacing it is a weekend-morning job. You'll shut off water, disassemble the faucet handle, swap the bad part for a new one, and reassemble. Done right, your faucet works like new again. Before you start, identify which type of faucet you have—ball, cartridge, or washer-based—because the repair method differs slightly. If you're not sure, the handle design usually gives it away. Ball faucets have a single curved handle. Cartridge faucets have a single straight or angled handle. Washer faucets have two separate handles. Once you know which you're dealing with, the process becomes straightforward.

1. Turn off the water supply. Locate the shutoff valves under the sink—there's usually one for hot and one for cold. Turn both clockwise until they stop. If you can't find them, or they don't work, you'll need to shut off the main water valve for the house. Open the faucet to confirm the water is off and release any pressure in the lines.
2. Remove the handle. Look for a small screw or set screw holding the handle in place. It's often hidden under a decorative cap or plug that you pry off with a flathead screwdriver. Once you find it, unscrew it and pull the handle straight up. Some handles have a collar nut underneath that you'll need to unscrew with an adjustable wrench before the handle comes free.
3. Remove the stem or cartridge. For cartridge faucets, you'll see a cylindrical piece sticking up after the handle is off. Use a cartridge puller tool (rent one for $5 or buy a cheap one) or carefully use an adjustable wrench to turn it counterclockwise until it comes free. For washer faucets, unscrew the stem packing nut with a wrench, then turn the stem counterclockwise until it's out. For ball faucets, remove the adjusting ring and collar, then pull the cam and cam washer up and out.
4. Inspect and replace the washer or seals. Look at the rubber washer or seals inside the stem or cartridge. If they're cracked, flattened, or discolored, they're the culprit. For washer faucets, unscrew the brass screw holding the washer at the bottom of the stem and replace it with an identical new one. For cartridge faucets, the whole cartridge usually gets replaced as a unit. For ball faucets, the inlet seals and springs are what wear out—they come in a kit and need to be pried out with a small screwdriver.
5. Clean the valve body. While the stem or cartridge is out, look inside the valve body for mineral deposits or debris. Use a small brush or cloth to wipe out any sediment. If there's heavy mineral buildup, soak a cloth in white vinegar and hold it against the opening for a few minutes, then wipe again. This prevents the new washer or cartridge from sealing poorly.
6. Reassemble the faucet. Reverse your disassembly steps: insert the new cartridge or stem, screw it in by hand first, then tighten with a wrench. Put the handle back on and tighten the set screw. For two-handle faucets, do both sides. Reattach any collar nuts or decorative caps. Turn the handles to the middle position before you turn the water back on.
7. Turn the water back on and test. Open both shutoff valves slowly, starting with one and waiting 10 seconds before opening the other. This prevents air locks in the lines. Run the faucet for 30 seconds to clear any air, then turn it off and watch for drips. Let it sit for five minutes and check again. If it's still dripping, you either installed the cartridge backward or didn't seat the washer correctly—go back and inspect.