Fix a Leaky Shower Head

Water dripping from a shower head after you turn it off isn't just annoying — it's waste you can measure in gallons per week. That slow drip usually means a failed washer inside the swivel connection or mineral deposits preventing a clean seal. The fix takes about an hour and costs less than ten dollars, assuming the head itself isn't cracked. Most shower heads connect to the pipe arm with a threaded collar that houses a rubber washer and sometimes an O-ring. Over time, hot water and minerals break down these seals. The good news: you don't need to replace the entire head. You're looking at a simple disassembly, a thorough cleaning, and installing fresh seals. If you've got an adjustable wrench and a bucket, you're already halfway there.

1. Detach the Old Head First. You don't need to shut off the main water supply — just turn the shower handle to off. Wrap the shower head collar with a rag to protect the finish, then use an adjustable wrench to turn counterclockwise. Most heads unthread easily, but if it's stuck, apply penetrating oil and wait ten minutes.
2. Map Your Parts Before Pulling. Lay the head face-down on a towel. Most models have a central faceplate that unscrews or a small screw on the side holding the swivel ball assembly. Remove it carefully and note the order of parts: typically a faceplate, a screen filter, a swivel ball, a washer, and an O-ring. Take a phone photo of the assembly before you pull it apart.
3. Soak Out the Mineral Gunk. Soak the swivel ball, screen, and faceplate in a bowl of white vinegar for twenty minutes to dissolve mineral buildup. Use an old toothbrush to scrub away loosened deposits. Rinse everything under hot water and dry completely. If the screen has holes clogged beyond cleaning, replace it — they're universal parts at most hardware stores.
4. Swap Rubber for Fresh Seals. The rubber washer inside the collar is almost always the culprit. Bring the old washer to the hardware store to match the exact size — they vary between manufacturers. Most are 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch diameter. Replace the O-ring at the same time even if it looks fine. Cost for both: under three dollars.
5. Seal Threads the Right Way. Remove old plumber's tape from the shower arm threads and clean the threads with a dry rag. Wrap new PTFE tape clockwise around the threads, starting at the base. Use three to four overlapping wraps. This creates a watertight seal and prevents the head from loosening over time.
6. Put It Back Together Carefully. Put the new O-ring and washer back in position inside the swivel ball assembly. Reattach the faceplate or secure the swivel ball with its retaining screw. Make sure every piece sits flush — any gaps will leak. Test the swivel action before mounting it back on the arm.
7. Hand-Tight Plus a Quarter Turn. Thread the shower head onto the pipe arm by hand until it stops. Use the adjustable wrench and rag to snug it down — turn until you feel resistance, then add another quarter turn. Don't crank it. The tape and washer do the sealing, not brute force.
8. Confirm No Leaks Remain. Turn the shower on full hot and let it run for two minutes. Turn it off and watch the head for thirty seconds. A few residual drips from water left in the head are normal — a steady drip means the washer isn't seated right. If it leaks from the collar threads, tighten slightly. If it leaks from the swivel, disassemble and reseat the washer.