Repair a Cracked or Chipped Tile in Your Backsplash or Shower

A cracked tile in the backsplash or shower wall is one of those small problems that nags you every time you see it—and gets worse if water seeps behind it. The good news is you don't need to replace the whole wall. A single tile replacement is straightforward if you work methodically: the hard part is getting the old tile out without damaging neighbors, and the waiting part is letting the new mortar set. The result, done right, is invisible. Your wall stays watertight, and you've saved yourself a contractor bill.

1. Turn off water and protect the surrounding area. If you're working in a shower, turn off water to that fixture if possible, or just ensure good ventilation. Lay drop cloths or tape off the surrounding area with painter's tape. Wet a sponge and dampen the tiles around the damaged one—this prevents dust from flying and mortar from drying too fast later.
2. Cut and remove the grout around the damaged tile. Use a grout saw or oscillating multi-tool with a grout blade to cut the grout lines on all four sides of the damaged tile. Work slowly and stay on the grout line itself—don't score the faces of the surrounding tiles. Make two passes if needed to fully separate the grout from the edges.
3. Chisel out the tile. Place a cold chisel at the edge of the grout line and tap gently with a hammer, working your way around the tile. Once you've loosened one corner, insert a putty knife or pry bar behind it and work the tile free. Expect it to break into pieces—that's normal. Remove all the old tile and any loose mortar behind it.
4. Clean out the mortar bed. Scrape away all old mortar, grout, and adhesive from the wall cavity where the tile sat. Use a chisel or old putty knife to get down to a smooth, solid substrate. Vacuum or brush out all dust and debris. The backing should be clean and flat—if it's significantly uneven, you may need to skim-coat it with mortar first.
5. Apply fresh mortar and set the new tile. Mix a small batch of thin-set mortar (use tile mortar, not grout) to a peanut-butter consistency. Apply mortar to the back of your new tile using a small notched trowel or putty knife, creating ridges. Press the tile firmly into place, making sure it sits flush with its neighbors. Check level and adjust immediately. Wipe away any excess mortar from the face and edges with a damp sponge.
6. Let the mortar cure fully. Leave the tile alone for at least 24 hours while the mortar cures. Don't use the shower or disturb the backsplash. Temperature and humidity affect cure time; cooler or more humid conditions may require 48 hours. Check your mortar packaging for cure windows specific to your climate.
7. Mix and apply grout. Mix grout to a thick, workable consistency—like frosting. Use a rubber grout float held at a 45-degree angle to press grout into the joints around the new tile. Fill all gaps between the new tile and its neighbors, and between the tile and existing grout lines. Work diagonally across the tile face to avoid pulling grout out of joints.
8. Clean and finish the grout. After 15–20 minutes, when the grout firms up slightly but is still toolable, use a damp sponge in circular motions to wipe the tile faces and smooth the grout joints. Rinse the sponge frequently. Make one final pass with a nearly dry sponge to remove haze. Let grout cure per manufacturer instructions—usually 24–48 hours before exposing to water.