Fix a Dripping Bathroom Faucet

A dripping faucet isn't just annoying; it wastes water and will cost you money on your bill. The good news is that a bathroom faucet drip almost always comes from the same place: a worn-out washer or cartridge inside the valve that controls water flow. These parts are cheap, replaceable, and the fix requires no soldering, no special skills, and usually nothing more than a wrench and screwdriver. Once you understand how your faucet works—and they're all basically the same—you can have this fixed before your next cup of coffee gets cold. The key is identifying whether you have a compression faucet (two separate handles), a ball faucet (one handle that moves side to side), a cartridge faucet (one handle that moves up and down), or a ceramic disk faucet (single lever, newer style). Most bathroom sinks use cartridge or compression designs. The part inside that's failing will be specific to your type, but the method is identical: shut off water, take it apart, replace the dead part, put it back together.

1. Identify Your Faucet Type. Look at your faucet and determine if it has two separate handles (compression), one handle that swivels (ball), one handle that moves straight up and down (cartridge), or a wide single lever (ceramic disk). Once you know the type, locate the shut-off valves under the sink—there should be one for hot and one for cold water. Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to confirm the water is off. If the valves won't turn or there are no valves visible, you'll need to shut off the main water supply to the house before proceeding.
2. Stop the Vanishing Act. Stuff a rag or rubber stopper into the sink drain. This prevents small parts like screws, washers, or clips from disappearing into the pipes. Lay out your screwdrivers, wrench, and any replacement parts you've already purchased on a clean surface near the sink so you're not hunting for them mid-job.
3. Pop the Handle Off. For most faucets, the handle is held on by a small screw. Look for a thin screw on the top of the handle, or a decorative cap (usually plastic or metal) that covers the screw. If there's a cap, gently pry it off with a flathead screwdriver or your fingernail. Once you see the screw, remove it with the appropriate screwdriver. The handle should now pull straight off toward you.
4. Loosen the Packing Nut. Below the handle, you'll see a large hexagonal nut called the packing nut. This sits directly on top of the valve body. Using an adjustable wrench or the appropriately sized wrench, turn this nut counterclockwise. It may be tight, so apply steady pressure—don't jerk it. Once it's loose, unscrew it by hand and set it aside. You now have access to the internal valve parts.
5. Extract the Stem. What you do here depends on your faucet type. For a compression faucet, you'll see a brass stem with a screw at the top—unscrew that, then pull the stem straight out. For a cartridge faucet, there's usually a clip or small pin holding the cartridge in place—remove it, then pull the cartridge straight up using pliers if needed. The stem or cartridge should come out cleanly. If it's stuck, wrap it in a cloth and wiggle it gently side to side.
6. Swap the Worn Washer. Once the stem is out, look at the bottom. For a compression faucet, you'll see a rubber washer screwed onto the base—this is almost certainly your problem. Unscrew it and replace it with an identical new washer from your hardware store kit. For a cartridge faucet, you're replacing the entire cartridge with a new one that matches your faucet model. If you're not certain which part is worn, bring the old stem or cartridge to the hardware store and match it exactly. Don't guess on cartridge models—they vary significantly by manufacturer.
7. Polish the Valve Seat. While the stem is out, look inside the faucet body at the bottom where the washer sits. You'll see a small circular surface called the valve seat. If it's crusted with mineral deposits or rough, it will wear out a new washer quickly. Use a small brush or cloth to clean it, or if deposits are heavy, use a valve seat dresser tool (a small specialty item, under $10). Wipe it dry and smooth with your finger—it should feel like polished metal.
8. Reinstall the Stem. For compression faucets, screw the new washer onto the stem, then insert the stem straight back into the valve body, turning it clockwise until it sits snugly. For cartridge faucets, insert the new cartridge in the same orientation it came out, making sure the alignment marks or tabs line up with the faucet body. Some cartridges need to face a certain direction for hot and cold to work correctly. Screw the packing nut back on clockwise—snug it firmly but don't overtighten.
9. Reattach the Handle. Slide the handle back onto the stem. It should sit flat and centered. Insert the handle screw and tighten it with your screwdriver—it only needs to be finger-tight, not cranked down. If there's a decorative cap, snap or press it back into place over the screw.
10. Restore Water and Verify. Turn both shut-off valves under the sink counterclockwise to restore water pressure. Open the faucet slowly and let water run for 10 seconds to flush out any air in the lines. The water should run smoothly. Now turn the handle to the off position and watch the faucet for at least 30 seconds. A properly repaired faucet will not drip—not even slowly. If it still drips at the spout, you may need to tighten the packing nut slightly, or the new washer may not have seated correctly.
11. Inspect for Hidden Leaks. While the water is on, look under the sink with a flashlight. Watch where the faucet connects to the supply lines and where the packing nut sits. There should be no water dripping. If you see a leak at the packing nut, tighten it another quarter turn with your wrench. If water is coming from the supply line connections, they may need tightening—turn the connector clockwise gently until the leak stops.
12. Monitor for 24 Hours. Remove the rag from the drain and put your tools away. Wipe down the sink and cabinet with a dry cloth. Return the shut-off valves to their original position if you moved them. Over the next 24 hours, check the faucet periodically—it should remain completely dry when off. If a drip starts, the fix may not have held, which usually means the washer wasn't seated properly or the valve seat needed more cleaning.