How to Replace a Bathroom Sink Drain Stopper

Drain stoppers wear out. The rubber seal cracks, the linkage corrodes, or the seal simply stops holding water. You'll know something's wrong when the sink won't hold water anymore, or the stopper sticks halfway down. The good news: replacing one is straightforward work that requires no special skills, takes less than an hour, and costs almost nothing. A new stopper runs $5 to $20, and the fix teaches you how your drain assembly actually works—knowledge that pays off the next time something goes sideways under your sink.

1. Know Your Stopper Type. Look at how your stopper operates. A pop-up stopper rises and falls when you move a lever on the faucet; you'll see a horizontal rod (the pivot rod) running from the drain assembly back toward the wall. A screw-in stopper simply twists up and down by hand. A push-down stopper stays fixed in the drain and you press it to seal. Knowing which you have determines your removal method.
2. Clear Your Workspace. Remove everything from the cabinet below the sink: cleaning supplies, containers, towels, anything that blocks your view and access. Place a bucket or shallow pan directly under the drain assembly to catch any residual water that drips when you loosen connections. Shine a flashlight into the space so you can see the underside of the drain assembly clearly.
3. Unscrew the Old Stopper. If your stopper simply twists by hand with no lever, place a cloth or rag under it to avoid scratching the finish, then grip it firmly and turn counterclockwise. It should unscrew in 2-3 full rotations. Lift straight up once loose. If it's stuck, wrap a rubber band around the stem for better grip, or apply a penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes before trying again.
4. Find the Pivot Rod. If you have a pop-up stopper with a lever, look beneath the sink at the back of the drain assembly. You'll see a horizontal rod (the pivot rod) extending from the back of the assembly toward the wall. At the end of this rod, there's a clevis strap—a thin metal or plastic bracket with a hole. Locate the clip or screw holding this clevis strap to the pivot rod. This is your release point.
5. Release the Clevis Strap. If your clevis strap is held by a screw, use a small screwdriver to remove it. If it's held by a C-clip, use a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry the clip off the pivot rod. Once disconnected, the pivot rod can move freely. Gently pull the pivot rod backward (toward the wall) to fully disengage it from the drain assembly. You may hear or feel a small pop as it releases.
6. Loosen the Collar Nut. Go back above the sink and look at the stopper stem in the center of the drain. Beneath the stopper, around the stem, you'll see a collar nut. Using a wrench (usually 1.25 inches) or an adjustable wrench, grip this collar and turn counterclockwise. Once loose, you can often unscrew it by hand. Lift the entire stopper assembly (stem and pivot rod still attached) straight up and out of the drain.
7. Scrub the Drain Threads. Look inside the drain opening. You'll see threads where the collar nut was seated. Use an old toothbrush or small bottle brush to scrub away any mineral buildup, soap scum, or corrosion. Wipe the area dry with a cloth. Also inspect the collar nut you just removed—if it's corroded or damaged, you may need to replace it along with the stopper. Check that the opening is clear of debris.
8. Seat the New Stopper. Lower the new stopper assembly into the drain opening, aligning the stem vertically. Screw the collar nut back onto the threads by hand first, then use your wrench to tighten it fully. Don't overtighten—you want it snug, not cranked down. The stopper should sit level in the drain and move smoothly when you pull or push it (depending on type).
9. Reattach the Linkage. Go back under the sink. If you disconnected a pivot rod earlier, reattach it now. Insert the rod back into the hole on the back of the drain assembly, then connect the clevis strap. The clevis strap should engage with the vertical linkage rod inside the drain assembly. If your original setup used a screw, reinstall it. If it used a C-clip, snap the clip back onto the pivot rod. The lever on top should now move the stopper up and down.
10. Verify the Seal. Fill the sink with water. Push, pull, or turn the stopper (depending on type) to make sure it seals the drain completely. The water should not leak. Now open the stopper and watch the water drain; there should be no resistance or sticking. Operate it 5-6 times to ensure smooth, consistent movement. Check under the sink for any drips from the collar nut connection.
11. Fine-Tune the Fit. If the stopper doesn't rise high enough or sits crooked, the clevis strap position may need adjustment. Loosen the screw or clip holding the clevis strap, move it up or down one hole position, and retighten. Test again. If the stopper sticks, remove it and check for debris or corrosion on the stem; clean with an old cloth and try again. Most adjustments take less than a minute once you've identified the issue.
12. Restore and Verify. Once everything works smoothly, dry the area under the sink and return your supplies to the cabinet. Wipe down the chrome or finish around the drain with a dry cloth to remove any water spots. Run water through the sink one more time to confirm the stopper still seals properly. You're done.