Clear a Clogged Bathroom Sink Drain

Bathroom sink drains clog from hair, soap buildup, and mineral deposits. The water pools, drains slowly, then stops entirely. You'll fix this yourself in under an hour using tools you likely have. The key is starting simple—plunging and snaking clear nine out of ten clogs without chemicals. If those fail, heat and vinegar dissolve buildup harmlessly. Chemical cleaners are the nuclear option: they work fast but weaken pipes with repeated use, so save them for stubborn blockages or call a plumber if you're uncertain about your pipes' age and material.

1. Find Hair Before the Drain. Open the cabinet under the sink and locate the pivot rod connected to the stopper mechanism. Unscrew the clip holding the rod, pull the rod straight out, then lift the stopper from the drain. Hair and soap wrap around this rod constantly. Rinse the stopper and rod under running water, then use your fingers or an old toothbrush to pull away all visible hair. Reinstall the rod and stopper, then test the drain. Many clogs stop here.
2. Suction the Blockage Out. Fill the sink with 4 to 6 inches of water. Position a cup-style plunger over the drain opening, making sure it covers the hole completely. If your sink has an overflow hole, block it with a wet cloth—air must compress to build suction. Push down hard and pull up quickly, repeating 15 to 20 times without breaking the seal. You should feel resistance on the push and hear a slurp when the clog breaks. Remove the plunger and let the water drain. If it drains freely, you're done. If it's slow, repeat plunging.
3. Dissolve Buildup with Heat. Remove the stopper again. Pour one-half cup of baking soda directly into the drain, then follow it immediately with one cup of white vinegar. The mixture will fizz and bubble—this is normal and helps break up soap and mineral deposits. Cover the drain with the stopper or a wet cloth to keep the reaction inside the pipe. Let it sit for 30 minutes, then pour a kettle of boiling water down the drain to flush the loosened debris. This method clears stubborn buildup without chemicals.
4. Snake Hair from Deep Pipe. Remove the stopper. Insert a hand auger (drain snake) into the drain opening and push it forward while twisting the handle. When you feel resistance, twist harder—the coil on the end catches hair and debris. Continue twisting and pushing until you feel the blockage break apart or until you've inserted the full length of the snake. Slowly pull the snake back out, twisting as you withdraw it. Hair will come out wrapped around the coil. Repeat if needed, then flush with hot water.
5. Access the Hidden Trap. Place a bucket under the P-trap (the U-shaped pipe under the sink). Use two adjustable wrenches—one to hold the fitting steady and one to turn the nut counterclockwise. Loosen both ends of the P-trap and slide it out. Water and debris will drain into the bucket. Look inside the trap and the drain line above it for visible blockages. A straightened wire coat hanger can push debris out. Clean the inside of the P-trap with an old brush or cloth, then reinstall it hand-tight, then tighten both nuts with your wrench.
6. Know When to Call Pro. After removing the P-trap, look up into the drain line. If you see standing water or debris, use your hand auger again, inserting it into the wall drain. If the clog is deeper in the wall, this is where a plumber's motorized snake becomes necessary. If you reach solid blockage after 5 or 6 feet, stop—the clog is in the wall or the sewer line.
7. Deploy Chemicals Carefully. If plunging, vinegar, snaking, and P-trap removal haven't cleared the clog, a chemical drain cleaner can dissolve stubborn buildup. Follow the product instructions exactly—wear gloves and eye protection, never mix products, and ensure ventilation. Pour the recommended amount, let it sit for the recommended time, then flush with hot water. Chemical cleaners are caustic and damage older pipes with repeated use, so use them sparingly and consider calling a plumber if the clog returns.
8. Reassemble and Verify. Once water drains freely, pour hot water down the drain for 30 seconds to flush away remaining debris. Reinstall the P-trap if you removed it, hand-tightening the nuts first, then tightening with a wrench until snug—don't over-tighten. Reinstall the stopper and pivot rod assembly. Run water to confirm the drain flows and the stopper holds water. Check under the sink for leaks where the P-trap connects.
9. Clear the Overflow Hole. Some sinks have an overflow hole near the rim (usually on the back or side). This hole can collect hair and debris, slowing drainage even after you clear the main clog. Use a thin brush or a straightened wire coat hanger to clean inside the overflow hole. Run hot water through it to flush debris. A clean overflow hole improves overall drainage.
10. Stop Clogs Before They Start. Install a simple mesh drain screen in the sink. These cost $2 to $5 and catch hair before it enters the pipe. Clean the screen weekly by emptying it into the trash, then rinsing it. This single step reduces clogs by 80 percent. For extra protection, monthly baking soda and vinegar treatments (the same process from earlier) keep pipes clear of soap buildup.