How to Clean and Maintain Your Gutters

Gutter systems are the unsung heroes of your home's structural integrity. When they are functioning, water is whisked away from your siding, foundation, and landscaping without a second thought. When they are clogged, that water turns into a heavy, overflowing hazard that can rot fascia boards, erode topsoil, and lead to basement leaks. Cleaning them twice a year is the best insurance policy you can buy for your home's exterior. Done well, your gutters should be clear of organic matter, securely attached to the roofline, and sloped just enough to push water toward the downspouts. It is a messy job, but it is one that prevents the most expensive types of house repairs.

Start at the downspout. Set up a stable ladder and begin at the downspout, working away from it. Use a plastic scoop or gloved hands to pull out leaves, twigs, and sludge into a bucket or onto a tarp placed below.
Push water toward the drain. Insert a garden hose into the gutter at the point furthest from the downspout. Turn the water on to a medium pressure to wash out remaining silt and confirm that water flows smoothly toward the drain.
Blast out the clog. If water backs up at the downspout, feed the garden hose into the top of the downspout and turn it on full blast. If the clog persists, use a plumber's snake to break up the blockage from the top or bottom.
Secure loose hangers. Check the gutter hangers and spikes that hold the troughs to the house. Tighten any loose screws or replace rusted spikes with modern gutter hangers to ensure the trough doesn't sag.
Seal the problem seams. Once the gutters are dry, identify seams or pinholes that leaked during the flush. Apply a bead of gutter-grade silicone sealant to the inside of the joint and smooth it with a putty knife.
Confirm proper drainage pitch. Ensure the gutters slope downward slightly toward the downspout, roughly one-quarter inch for every ten feet of length. Adjust the hangers if the gutter is holding standing water in the middle.