Fix Cabinet Doors That Won't Close Right or Squeak

Cabinet doors that close unevenly or squeak are annoying, but they're rarely expensive to fix. The problem almost always lives in the hinges—they shift over time from normal use, or they're dry and friction is building up. A well-hung cabinet door should close smoothly, sit flush with its neighbors, and land with a soft click, not a bind. This is the kind of repair that takes twenty minutes and a screwdriver, and once you understand how hinge adjustment works, you'll handle it the same way every time.

1. Spot the Gap Pattern. Close the cabinet door and examine the gaps on all sides. Compare the top gap to the bottom gap, and the left side to the right side. If the top gap is larger than the bottom, the door is tilted down on the left hinge side. If one side sits proud of its neighbor, the door frame itself may be twisted. Take a phone photo of the closed door from directly in front—this is your alignment reference. Look at the hinge screws while the door is closed; if any are visibly loose or spinning freely when you try to tighten them by hand, the hinge needs attention before adjustment.
2. Snug Every Screw. Open the door fully and look at all visible hinge screws—both on the hinge itself and on the cabinet frame. Using the correct screwdriver size (usually #2 Phillips), try to snug each screw with gentle pressure. Do not overtighten; you're feeling for loose play, not cranking. If a screw spins without tightening, remove it completely and inspect the hole. If the hole is enlarged or stripped, you may need to fill it with a toothpick and wood glue, let it dry, and re-drill slightly off-center.
3. Find the Adjustment Screws. Most modern kitchen cabinet hinges have two or three adjustment screws. The screw closest to the door edge (deepest in) typically adjusts side-to-side (left-right movement). The screw closest to the cabinet frame adjusts in-and-out (forward-backward depth). Some hinges also have a screw that adjusts up-and-down. Open the door and look at the hinge barrel; you'll see small screws, often with slots or Phillips heads. These are not the mounting screws that hold the hinge to the cabinet—those are larger and on the outside of the hinge. Mark the adjustment screws with a piece of tape if you need to keep them straight.
4. Square It Side to Side. If the door is tilted left or right when closed, adjust the hinge closest to the tilt. For example, if the top of the door leans left, adjust the top hinge. Locate the side-to-side adjustment screw (the one nearest the door edge). Turn it a quarter turn clockwise to pull the door toward the hinge, or counterclockwise to push it away. Close the door and check alignment. Repeat in small increments—quarter turns—until the door sits flush. If you overshoot, turn it back the other direction.
5. Align Depth Front to Back. If the door sits proud of its neighbors (sticking out) or sits too far back (inset), adjust the depth. Locate the forward-backward adjustment screw on each hinge (usually the one closest to the cabinet frame, or in the middle of the hinge barrel). Turn it clockwise to push the door backward (into the cabinet), or counterclockwise to pull it forward (out). Make quarter-turn adjustments and close the door to check alignment. Do this on both top and bottom hinges if the door is uneven front-to-back.
6. Raise or Lower the Door. Some hinges have a vertical adjustment screw that lets you raise or lower the door without moving it side-to-side. This is useful if your door has drifted up or down over time. Locate this screw (if your hinge has one; older hinges may not). Turn it clockwise to raise the door, counterclockwise to lower it. Work in quarter-turn increments. This adjustment is less common than side-to-side, but it can be a lifesaver if you're trying to even up multiple doors on the same cabinet run.
7. Listen for Friction Points. Close the door slowly and listen. A good cabinet door closes with a soft, steady motion and lands with a light click. If you hear a scraping sound, a bind, or a squeak, the door is rubbing somewhere. Watch the door as it closes—does it meet the frame evenly, or does one corner hit first? If it binds at the top, the top corner needs to move back or the top hinge needs adjustment. If it binds at the bottom, adjust the bottom hinge. Keep adjusting until the door closes smoothly without contact noise.
8. Silence the Squeak. If the door closes smoothly but squeaks, the hinges are dry. Open the door fully. Look at the hinge barrel where the pin sits—this is the pivot point and the main source of squeak. Using a thin lubricant like silicone spray or a light machine oil, apply a single small spray or drop directly into the hinge barrel and the screw holes. Do not over-apply; you only need enough to reduce friction. Work the door open and closed a few times to distribute the lubricant. Wipe away any excess with a clean cloth.
9. Rule Out Frame Issues. If the door still won't align evenly after hinge adjustment, the cabinet box itself may be out of square. Close the door and look at the perimeter gaps—are they consistent all the way around, or is one corner noticeably larger? Use a level on the top and side of the cabinet frame (from inside if possible). If the frame is tilted more than one-eighth inch over its width, shimming the cabinet may help, but this is beyond simple hinge adjustment. For most homes, slight frame drift is normal and doesn't affect function.
10. Lock Everything Down. Once the door is aligned and closing smoothly, do a final walk through and snug every hinge screw—both the mounting screws that hold the hinge to the cabinet and the adjustment screws you've been turning. Use gentle, steady pressure; you're confirming they're snug, not over-torquing. Over-tightened screws can strip the holes in the hinge or cabinet, making the problem worse. If a screw feels like it's spinning without gripping, stop and replace it with a slightly longer screw of the same gauge.