How to Fix or Replace a Kitchen Faucet Spray Head

Kitchen faucet spray heads take abuse. They get mineral deposits, the trigger wears out, the hose cracks, or the spray pattern stops working altogether. The good news is that this is one of the easiest faucet repairs you can do, and you don't need a plumber. Most of the time you're just unscrewing one connection and swapping in a new head—no special tools, no shutting off water. If your spray head is leaking from the base, dripping when you don't want it to, or just not spraying like it used to, you can diagnose and fix it in under an hour. We'll walk you through cleaning it first (because that solves most problems), then show you how to replace it if cleaning doesn't work.

1. Kill the Water First. Turn off the water supply under the sink by closing the shut-off valves (turn clockwise). Once water is off, locate where the spray head connects to the hose—usually it's a threaded collar at the base of the head. Using an adjustable wrench or your hand, unscrew the collar by turning it counterclockwise. Pull the spray head away from the hose. If it's stuck, wrap a cloth around the collar to improve grip and give it a firm turn.
2. Spot Hidden Damage Now. Before proceeding, inspect the rubber hose for cracks, splits, or soft spots. Squeeze the length of it—it should feel firm, not mushy. If the hose is compromised, it needs replacement. If it looks intact, move forward with cleaning or head replacement.
3. Crack It Open Gently. Hold the spray head handle in one hand and locate the seams where the head unscrews. Most heads are two-piece: the handle and the spray body. Carefully unscrew or pry apart the two pieces using your fingernails or a plastic spoon (avoid metal tools that can scratch). Inside you'll see a small screen, an O-ring or seal, and sometimes a rubber turbine or internal filter.
4. Vinegar Solves Most Problems. Soak all removable parts (screen, filter, seals) in a bowl of white vinegar for 15–20 minutes. Use an old toothbrush to scrub away mineral deposits and buildup from the screen. Rinse each piece under clean running water. If the spray pattern is still weak after cleaning, the problem is mineral clogging, and soaking usually fixes it. If the trigger is stiff or the head is leaking from the base, the O-ring or seal is likely worn.
5. Swap the Seals Out. If cleaning didn't fix leaking or stiffness, the problem is usually a hardened or cracked O-ring. Look for small rubber rings or gaskets inside the head. Remove them and take them to a hardware store or plumbing supply shop to match the size. O-ring assortment kits are $5–$10. Apply a thin layer of food-grade silicone grease to the new O-ring and install it in the same position as the old one.
6. Put It Back Together Slowly. Working in reverse order, place the internal parts back into the spray body: first the screen, then the filter or turbine (if applicable), then the seal or O-ring. Align the two halves of the head and screw them back together by hand. Tighten firmly but don't overdo it—you should feel solid resistance when the two pieces are fully seated, then stop.
7. Reconnect Without Over-Tightening. Position the spray head and align the threaded collar with the hose connection. Screw the collar clockwise by hand until it's snug, then use your wrench to tighten it an additional quarter-turn. Don't crank it hard—hand-tight plus a small wrench turn is enough. Tighten too much and you risk cracking the collar or stripping the threads.
8. Verify the Fix Works. Open the shut-off valves under the sink by turning them counterclockwise. Turn on the kitchen faucet (both the main spout and trigger the spray head). Check the connection between the head and hose for drips. Squeeze the trigger several times to confirm the spray pattern is strong and even. Test both spray and stream modes if your head has them.
9. Swap in the Right Part. If cleaning and seal replacement didn't solve the problem, or if the head is cracked, the only fix is replacement. Bring your faucet model number (usually stamped on the faucet body) or the old spray head to a plumbing supply shop and buy an exact match. Follow steps 1 and 7 above: disconnect the old head, screw the new one onto the hose, then test. Most OEM spray heads come with new seals and hose washers included.
10. Replace the Hose Last. If water leaks from the base of the spray head connection even after replacing the head, the hose connection itself is worn. Turn off the water, disconnect the spray head assembly from the faucet body (usually one or two large nuts under the sink). Unscrew the hose from the faucet inlet. Install a new hose kit (head, hose, and fittings together cost $20–$40) by reversing these steps. Hand-tighten all connections, then use a wrench for a final quarter-turn.