How to Fix a Sticking or Binding Cabinet Door

Cabinet doors that bind or stick are one of those small frustrations that compounds every time you reach for a dish. The door catches halfway, you have to jiggle it, and over time you stop using that cabinet altogether. The good news: this is almost always fixable without replacing the door or cabinet box. The culprits are usually simple—hinges out of adjustment, wood swollen from humidity, the door frame slightly out of square, or hinges worn enough that they've lost their hold. Identifying which one is happening takes a few minutes of hands-on inspection. Once you know what you're dealing with, the repair is straightforward and uses tools you likely have in a drawer.

1. Find the Binding Point. Open the cabinet door slowly and feel for resistance. Note whether it binds at the top, bottom, or along the entire side edge. Close it and look at the gap between the door and frame—is it even, or wider at one end? Open and close several times to confirm the consistent binding point. This tells you whether the problem is hinge adjustment, wood swelling, or frame misalignment.
2. Tighten All Hinge Screws. Locate both hinges on the door. Using a screwdriver that fits the screw head properly (not undersized, which rounds it out), tighten each screw slowly. Don't muscle it—stop when you feel solid resistance. Loose screws are the most common cause of binding. Test the door after tightening to see if the sticking improves.
3. Pull Top Hinge Forward. If the door catches at the top edge, the top hinge is sitting too far back. Open the cabinet and locate the adjustment screw on the top hinge (usually on the side facing the cabinet interior). Turn it clockwise in quarter-turn increments. Test the door after each adjustment. You're pulling the hinge forward, which tilts the door away from the frame at the top.
4. Pull Bottom Hinge Forward. If the door catches at the bottom, adjust the bottom hinge the same way. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise in quarter-turn increments and test after each turn. This pulls the bottom hinge forward and tilts the door away from the frame at the bottom.
5. Remove Material Gradually. If hinge adjustment doesn't solve it, the door wood itself is likely swollen or oversized. Close the door and use a pencil to mark the area where it binds by running it along the frame—you'll see a line on the door edge where contact happens. Remove the door by unscrewing both hinges from the cabinet box (not from the door). Lay it flat on sawhorses. Use 80-grit sandpaper or a hand plane to remove material from the marked line. Sand gradually—remove a little, test the fit, sand more. This prevents over-correction.
6. Check Cabinet Square. While the door is off, place a carpenter's level against the top and side of the cabinet opening. If the cabinet has settled, the frame may be out of square. Check diagonals with a tape measure—if opposite corner distances differ by more than a quarter-inch, the cabinet has racked. Minor racking (under a half-inch over a 24-inch width) is usually why doors bind unevenly. You may not be able to adjust the cabinet itself, so focus on hinge adjustment and edge sanding instead.
7. Check Hinge Condition. With the door off, look at both hinges. Check for cracks in the hinge cup, bent mounting plates, or loose pivot pins. If a hinge is cracked or the door sags noticeably, the hinge is failing. Compare with a new hinge at the hardware store to confirm the model and size. Worn hinges lose their grip and cause binding as the door sags incrementally.
8. Swap in New Hinges. If the hinges are damaged, unscrew the mounting plate from the cabinet side (not the door). Note the hole pattern and measurements. Buy matching replacement hinges. Install the new hinge in the same holes—most hinges are standardized to 32mm centers. Screw the door back on. The new hinge should provide a tight, precise fit. Test the door and adjust if needed using the hinge screws.
9. Hang Door and Test. Line the hinge on the door with the hinge on the cabinet frame. Start both screws by hand before tightening to avoid cross-threading. Tighten firmly but don't over-torque—you'll strip the screw holes and create more problems. Open and close the door ten times to confirm smooth, consistent operation. The gap should be even along the entire frame.
10. Seal the Sanded Edge. If you've sanded the door edge, the bare wood is now exposed to moisture and will swell again quickly. Once the door is reinstalled and working smoothly, sand the exposed edge lightly with 120-grit paper, then apply matching stain and polyurethane or paint to seal it. This prevents re-swelling and keeps the fix permanent.