Fix a Dripping Kitchen Faucet

A dripping kitchen faucet is one of those small annoyances that turns into money down the drain. One drop per second adds up to 3,000 gallons a year. The good news: you almost certainly don't need to replace the faucet. Inside every standard faucet is a cartridge or valve body filled with rubber washers and seals that wear down over time. When they fail, water leaks past them whether the handle is on or off. The repair is straightforward enough for anyone comfortable turning a wrench, and you'll save the $200 to $500 a plumber would charge. Your faucet will feel tight and responsive again when you're done. The work depends on what kind of faucet you have. Single-handle faucets (the lever type) typically have a cartridge you can pop out and replace in minutes. Two-handle faucets have separate valve bodies under each handle, usually accessed by removing the handles and digging into the body beneath. Either way, the fix is the same: find the wear, swap the part, turn the water back on, and test. You don't need special tools, and the parts cost a few dollars.

1. Stop the Flow First. Locate the shutoff valves under your sink, one for hot water and one for cold. Turn them clockwise until they stop. If you can't find them or they won't turn, shut off the main water supply to the house. Turn the faucet handle on and let any remaining water drain out. This stops water from spraying everywhere when you open the faucet body.
2. Know Your Faucet. Look at the faucet handle. If it's a single lever that moves up and down or side to side, you have a cartridge faucet—the easiest to repair. If you have two separate handles (one for hot, one for cold), you have a two-handle faucet with individual valve bodies. Some faucets also have a decorative spout collar that twists off. Check if yours does by gently trying to turn the collar around the base of the spout—if it moves, remove it by hand.
3. Expose the Hidden Screw. Look for a small set screw on the handle—it's usually hidden under a plastic cap or decorative disc at the base of the lever. Pry the cap off with a flat screwdriver (be gentle so you don't crack it), then unscrew the set screw with a hex key or screwdriver, depending on the faucet. The handle should now slide or pull straight off. Set it aside with the cap and screw in a small container so they don't disappear.
4. Unthread the Holding Nut. Under the handle, you'll see a large nut (the packing nut) that holds the cartridge in place. Use an adjustable wrench to turn it counterclockwise. Don't force it—if it's stuck, spray penetrating oil around the edge, wait a few minutes, and try again. Once it's loose, unscrew it by hand and set it aside. The cartridge should now be visible in the faucet body.
5. Extract the Worn Cartridge. Grasp the cartridge stem (the part sticking up) with a wrench or cartridge puller and pull it straight up and out of the faucet body. It should come free without much resistance. If it's stuck tight, don't yank it—spray penetrating oil down into the faucet body around the cartridge, wait ten minutes, then try again. Place the old cartridge on a towel; it's going to be wet.
6. Clear the Debris Path. Look inside the faucet body where the cartridge came out. You may see sediment, mineral deposits, or small debris. Use a flashlight to see clearly. Wipe out any loose debris with a damp cloth or paper towel. If there's heavy mineral buildup, soak a cloth in white vinegar and wipe the inside of the cavity. This ensures the new cartridge seals properly.
7. Seat the New Cartridge. Before you install the new cartridge, check that it matches your old one—bring the old one to the hardware store to verify the fit. Install the new cartridge by inserting it straight down into the faucet body, aligning the orientation mark (usually a small tab or notch) with the handle position you noted earlier. Push it down firmly until it seats. It should go in smoothly; if you feel resistance, don't force it—pull it out, check the alignment, and try again.
8. Secure Without Over-Tightening. Thread the packing nut back onto the faucet body by hand first, then use your wrench to tighten it clockwise. Tighten it snugly but don't over-tighten—you should feel resistance, not have to strain. The nut should be tight enough that the cartridge doesn't wiggle. If you over-tighten, the handle will become hard to move.
9. Reattach the Handle. Slide the handle back onto the cartridge stem, aligning it with the orientation you noted. The handle should slide on smoothly. Once it's seated, insert the set screw through the hole and tighten it with a hex key or screwdriver until it's snug—not so tight that it cracks the handle, just tight enough that the handle doesn't wiggle. Snap or glue the decorative cap back over the screw.
10. Restore Water Flow. Turn the shutoff valves under the sink counterclockwise slowly—open them all the way. As water fills the lines, air may hiss out of the faucet spout; this is normal. Let it run for 20 to 30 seconds until the flow steadies. Then turn the faucet handle on and off a few times, testing both hot and cold, to make sure the water flows smoothly and the handle feels responsive.
11. Hunt for Hidden Leaks. Turn the faucet on and let it run for a minute, then turn it off. Look under the sink and at the base of the faucet where it meets the countertop. Dry the area with a cloth, then wait two minutes and check again. You should see no new water. If water is dripping from the packing nut area, turn off the water, tighten the packing nut a quarter turn, and test again.
12. Verify Smooth Operation. Turn the handle on and off several times in both directions. It should move smoothly without catching, grinding, or feeling gritty. Adjust the water temperature by moving the handle side to side (on single-handle faucets) and confirm that hot and cold water respond correctly. If the handle feels rough or the cartridge seems to catch, you may need to remove and reinstall the cartridge, ensuring it's seated correctly.