Fix a Misaligned Cabinet Door or Broken Hinge

Cabinet doors drift out of square for one simple reason: hinges loosen. A door that sags at the outer edge, sits proud of its frame, or won't close flush costs you nothing to fix—just a screwdriver and fifteen minutes. The hinge itself might be worn, bent, or cracked, but even a dead hinge comes out in under an hour. What separates a sloppy repair from a professional one is understanding that three adjustment screws on a European hinge control height, depth, and side-to-side movement independently. Get those right and your doors sit like they came from the factory. A broken hinge—one with a snapped mounting plate or frozen adjustment screw—needs replacement, but the process is straightforward enough for anyone who can handle basic fastener work.

1. Spot Damage Before Adjusting. Open the cabinet door fully and examine both hinges. European hinges (the standard on most modern cabinets) have three visible screws on the mounting plate and a circular adjusting hole. Traditional pin hinges are simpler—just two flat metal leaves held together by a pin. Look for bent metal, cracks in the casting, or screws sitting proud of the surface. If the hinge cup (the round part inside the hole) is visibly cracked or the mounting plate is bent, the hinge is dead and needs replacement. If everything looks intact but the door is misaligned, you need adjustment, not replacement.
2. Level the Door Vertically. Locate the middle screw on the hinge mounting plate—this controls up-and-down movement. Open the door completely so you have clear access. Turn the screw counterclockwise a quarter turn and check the door. If the top of the door is too high, turn the screw on the top hinge counterclockwise. If the bottom is too high, adjust the bottom hinge the same way. Make small adjustments—quarter turns—and check after each one. You're aiming for equal gaps at top and bottom.
3. Pull Forward to Flush. This is the screw nearest the front of the door, closest to you when the door is open. Turning it clockwise pulls the door forward; counterclockwise pushes it back into the cabinet. The outer edge of the door should sit perfectly flush with the cabinet frame—no proud edges, no gaps hiding inside. Make quarter-turn adjustments and close the door each time to check. This adjustment affects how the door closes and whether it catches on anything inside.
4. Square the Door Horizontally. This is the third screw on the hinge plate, usually at the back. Turning it counterclockwise moves the door toward the hinge (inward); clockwise moves it away (outward). The gap between the door and the cabinet frame on either side should be even. If one side has a wider gap, adjust this screw on the offending hinge. Again, quarter turns. This is fine-tuning—don't go aggressive here.
5. Lock Screws Firmly Snug. Even if you didn't need to adjust, check every screw on both hinges with your screwdriver. Loosen mounting screws (the ones holding the hinge to the cabinet) only slightly—just a quarter turn. Do not remove them. Tighten them back firmly, but do not overtighten; you'll strip the screw or crack the mounting plate. The goal is snug, not crushing. Loose hinges are the reason doors drift.
6. Free the Door Safely. If you determined the hinge itself is damaged (cracked cup, bent plate, stripped holes), you must remove the door. Open it fully and support the bottom with your other hand or have someone hold it. Locate all screws holding the hinge mounting plate to the cabinet side (usually three per hinge, six total for two hinges). Remove screws from the top hinge first, keeping the door supported. Then remove the bottom hinge screws. The door will come free. Set it on a flat surface—do not rest it on the hinges.
7. Disconnect the Hinge Plate. The hinge is now held to the door only by the cup and the mounting screws on the door face. These are usually three screws on the inside of the door. Turn them counterclockwise and remove them. The hinge cup will stay in the hole—that's correct. The hinge mounting plate comes free. If the cup is cracked or you want to fill the old hole, you can drill it out later; for now, you're just removing the metal hardware.
8. Seat the New Hinge. If you're reusing the existing cup and holes, slide the new hinge mounting plate into position and align it with the old screw holes. Insert the three screws and turn them clockwise, hand-tight first, then snug with the screwdriver. Do not overtighten. If you're drilling new holes (because the old cup was damaged), measure carefully from the bottom edge of the door and mark the new cup location. Use the hinge specification sheet to get the exact distance. Drill or chisel the cup hole to the correct depth—usually 35mm for European hinges. Press the new cup in and screw the mounting plate to the door.
9. Remount and Fine-Tune. Position the door in front of the cabinet opening, supporting it with both hands or having someone help. Align the bottom hinge first—the mounting plate slides onto the cup on the cabinet side. Push it all the way in until it seats. Insert and hand-tighten the three mounting screws, then snug them with your screwdriver. Repeat with the top hinge. Once both hinges are hand-tightened, make final adjustments with the three adjustment screws on each hinge (height, depth, side-to-side) until the door sits perfectly square in the frame.
10. Test the Swing Five Times. Close the door and observe the closing action. It should swing smoothly and close without catching or bouncing open. Look at all three gaps—top, bottom, and sides—and verify they're even. Open and close it five times. If it swings smoothly, sits flush, and has even gaps, you're done. If it sticks or bounces, go back to your adjustment screws. Most final-stage problems are depth (front-to-back)—if the door rubs as it closes, pull it forward slightly with the depth adjustment screw.
11. Lock Everything Down. Once the door sits perfectly, go back and firmly tighten every screw—both the hinge mounting screws and the adjustment screws. You want them snug enough that they won't vibrate loose but not so tight that you strip them. A well-installed hinge should not move when you grab the door edge and try to wiggle it. Check one more time after a week; cabinet door hinges sometimes settle slightly.