How to Repair or Replace a Spray Kitchen Faucet

Kitchen spray faucets fail in predictable ways. The spray head clogs. The hose develops a leak near the base. The trigger stops clicking back. These aren't catastrophic failures—they're wear items, and fixing them is straightforward work that doesn't require calling a plumber. You need to understand that your spray faucet is really three systems working together: the main faucet body (which stays at the sink), the hose (which flexes thousands of times), and the spray head (which gets mineral deposits and takes the most abuse). Knowing which part is actually broken makes repair fast. If it's just the head or hose, you swap it out in minutes. If it's the body seal leaking from underneath, you might be replacing the whole faucet—which is still a job you can do yourself on a Saturday morning.

1. Know What's Broken. Test the faucet with full water pressure. Does the spray head produce weak or no spray? Turn on the handle and hold the trigger—does it spray at all? Check under the sink with a flashlight. Look for water dripping from the hose connections or from underneath the faucet body where it meets the sink. Listen for a continuous drip from the spray head when the trigger is released. Write down exactly what you observe. This tells you whether you need to clean the aerator, replace the spray head, unclog the hose, or replace the whole faucet.
2. Kill the Water Flow. Locate the shutoff valves under the sink—there should be two, one for hot and one for cold. If you see them, turn both clockwise until they stop. If you don't see them or they're stuck, turn off the main water supply to your house at the meter or main panel. Once you've shut off the supply, turn on the faucet to release any remaining pressure in the lines. Water should stop flowing. If it doesn't, your valve isn't fully closed.
3. Soak Out the Minerals. Unscrew the spray head by hand. Most heads twist off counterclockwise. If it's stuck, wrap the base with a towel and use a pair of pliers to gently turn it. Once off, examine the internal mesh. Hold it up to light. If it's clogged with white or brown mineral deposits, soak it in white vinegar for 30 minutes, then scrub the mesh gently with an old toothbrush. Rinse and screw it back on. Test the spray.
4. Unclog the Hidden Hose. The spray head connects to a hose that runs down inside the faucet body and under the sink. If spray is weak even after cleaning the head, the hose itself may be blocked. Under the sink, locate where the hose connects to the faucet body—it's usually a threaded fitting. Place a bucket under it first. Use an adjustable wrench to carefully loosen this connection (turn counterclockwise). Water may drip out. Once loose, remove the hose. Hold it up to light and look inside. If you see mineral buildup, run hot vinegar through it or use a straightened coat hanger to gently push any debris through. Reconnect it firmly with the wrench.
5. Swap the Leaking Hose. If water drips from the hose itself (not the connections), the hose has developed a pinhole leak and needs replacing. Place a bucket under the sink. Using an adjustable wrench, disconnect the hose at both ends—one connection goes to the faucet body, the other goes to the spray head. Take the old hose to the hardware store to match the length and connection size. Buy a replacement hose (usually $8-15). Reconnect the new hose at the faucet body first, tightening firmly but not aggressively. Then connect the spray head. Turn the water back on and check for leaks at both connection points.
6. Spot the Body Seal Failure. If water drips from underneath where the faucet meets the sink, the faucet's seals are failing. This is the point where you can either attempt a seal replacement (which is complex) or commit to replacing the whole faucet. For most people, replacement is simpler. Place a bucket under the faucet. Using an adjustable wrench, disconnect both the hot and cold water supply lines from the bottom of the faucet—these are the flexible hoses or rigid tubes coming from the shutoff valves. Once disconnected, look at the nut that holds the faucet to the sink from below. This is usually a large brass or plastic nut. Use a basin wrench (a specialty tool that costs $10-15 and makes this job easy) or a large adjustable wrench to loosen it. As you loosen, the faucet body will start to lift out from the top.
7. Pull Out the Old Faucet. Once the mounting nut is fully loose, pull the faucet body up and out from the sink. You may need to wiggle it gently. The spray hose should come up with it. Look at the top of the sink where the faucet was mounted. You'll see a rubber or foam gasket or caulk ring. Remove all of this old material with a scraper. Clean the sink surface thoroughly with a cloth—it must be dry and clean for the new faucet to seal properly. If caulk was used, this is a good time to remove all of it.
8. Mount the New Fixture. Unbox the new faucet and lay out all the parts. Most kitchen faucets come with a new gasket, washers, and mounting hardware. Check the instructions for your specific model. Insert the faucet body down through the sink hole from the top. The spray hose should feed down through as well. From underneath, slide the rubber gasket onto the faucet shank, then thread on the brass mounting nut. Use the basin wrench to tighten it. Hand-tight plus one-quarter turn is usually right—you'll feel resistance. Don't crank it. Once mounted, connect the new supply lines to the hot and cold shutoff valves. The supply lines usually come pre-assembled, so you're just screwing them on. Tighten these firmly with an adjustable wrench.
9. Check Every Connection. Turn both the hot and cold shutoff valves back on by turning counterclockwise. Turn on the new faucet and run water for 30 seconds. Check all connections you just made—under the sink, at the supply lines, and where the faucet mounts to the sink. Place a dry towel under each connection and watch for drips. If you see water, turn off the supply again and tighten that connection another quarter turn. Test again. Once everything is dry, run both hot and cold water, then test the spray head with the trigger. The spray should be full and immediate.
10. Seal Against Future Leaks. Most new faucets come with a gasket that seals the opening, but some installations benefit from silicone caulk as backup. If water is getting down into the cabinet below (which is rare), apply a bead of silicone caulk around the base of the faucet where it meets the sink. Use painter's tape on both sides of the joint to keep the caulk line clean. Apply the caulk with a caulking gun, smooth it with a wet finger, and let it cure for 24 hours before using the faucet heavily.
11. Organize and Protect. Before you close everything up, wipe down the underside of the sink and the cabinet floor with a dry cloth. This is a good moment to check for any old stains or water damage. Look at the hose run—make sure it's not kinked or pinched. If there's anything stored under the sink, wait 24 hours before putting it back, just in case there's a slow leak you missed. Place newspaper or a towel under the new connections for the first week as a safety net.