How to Replace a Broken Oven Heating Element

Replacing an oven heating element is one of the most straightforward appliance repairs you can do yourself, and it'll save you the service call fee that would otherwise run $150 to $300. When your oven stops reaching temperature, heats unevenly, or won't heat at all, a burned-out element is usually the culprit—you'll see a visible break in the wire or dark discoloration on the element surface. The element itself is a simple coil of resistive wire held in a metal sheath, and it's held in place by just two bolts. You don't need to remove the entire oven or call an electrician. What matters is matching the exact model number of your replacement element and making sure you've killed the power before you start. Get this right, and you're looking at a repair that costs under $20 in parts and takes less than half an hour.

1. Kill Power First, Always. Locate your home's electrical panel and flip the breaker that controls the oven circuit. If your oven is gas, turn off the gas valve at the wall behind or beside the stove. Do not rely on turning off the oven using its dial—you need to kill power completely. If you're not certain which breaker controls the oven, flip it off and go back to the kitchen to verify the oven lights don't come on.
2. Give It Time to Cool. Wait at least 30 minutes after turning off power. If you were actively using the oven before it failed, give it a full hour. The heating element and metal surrounding it will be extremely hot and can cause serious burns. Touch the inside of the oven with your hand near (not on) the element to confirm it's cool to the touch.
3. Spot the Damaged Element. Pull the oven door open fully. Most oven heating elements are located at the bottom of the oven cavity, running horizontally across the width. You'll see a metal tube with a coil of wire visible inside. Some ovens have a second element at the top for broiling. Identify which element is damaged—you're looking for visible breaks, dark burn marks, or blistering on the sheath. If you can't see obvious damage, the element may have failed internally; proceed with replacement anyway if your model matches the one you're replacing.
4. Unbolt the Old Element. You'll see two bolts, one at each end of the element, pressing it against the rear wall or sides of the oven cavity. Use a socket wrench or adjustable wrench of the appropriate size (usually 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch) to loosen these bolts. Turn counterclockwise until they're loose enough to remove by hand. Don't force them—if a bolt is stuck, apply a penetrating lubricant and wait 5 minutes. Once the bolts are free, set them aside in a clean spot where you won't lose them.
5. Pull the Connector Clean. At the rear of the element, you'll see two flat metal terminals or a terminal block where wires connect. Gently grasp the connector block (or individual spade connectors if your oven uses them) and pull straight back away from the element terminals. The connection should come free with light pressure—do not twist or pry. If the connector is stuck, spray a tiny amount of penetrating lubricant around the base of the connector and wait a minute before pulling again.
6. Extract the Coil Carefully. Now that the bolts are out and the connector is free, grasp the element tube firmly (not the coil wire itself) and pull it straight toward you and out of the oven. If it resists, check that you've fully loosened both bolts and fully disconnected the electrical connector. The element should slide out smoothly. Place it on a towel or workbench where it won't roll around. Do not touch the internal coil wire—it's fragile and broken pieces could fall into the oven.
7. Seat the New Element. Unpack your new replacement element and verify it matches your oven model number. Carefully align the element so that the two bolt holes at each end line up with the threaded holes or bolt slots in the oven cavity. Slide the element in slowly and deliberately, ensuring the connector terminals at the rear are positioned to face outward toward where the electrical connector will plug in. The element should sit flat against the bottom or side of the cavity with no twists or kinks in the tube.
8. Secure Both Bolts Firmly. Insert the two bolts you removed earlier into the bolt holes at each end of the element. Hand-thread them first so they catch properly and don't cross-thread. Once both bolts are hand-tight, use your socket wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten them snugly. You're aiming for firm pressure—think 'hand-tight plus a quarter turn'—not maximum force. If you over-tighten, you risk cracking the mounting bracket or stripping the threads.
9. Reconnect the Terminals. Take the electrical connector you disconnected earlier and align it with the terminals on the new element. Push it straight in until it clicks or seats fully. You should hear or feel a definitive click if your oven uses push-on spade connectors, or the connector block should slide in smoothly and stop. Gently tug on the connector to confirm it's fully seated and won't pull free if the element vibrates.
10. Power Up and Verify Heat. Go back to your electrical panel and flip the breaker controlling the oven back to the ON position. Return to the kitchen and close the oven door. Set the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and let it preheat for 10 minutes. You should hear the element click or hum as it powers on, and the element should glow red-orange inside the cavity. If the oven doesn't heat, immediately turn off the breaker and check that your electrical connector is fully seated. If heat comes on normally, let the oven run at 350 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes to confirm steady operation.
11. Test a Full Bake Cycle. Set your oven to 375 degrees and place an oven thermometer on the middle rack. Let it preheat for 15 minutes, then check the thermometer. It should read within 25 degrees of the set temperature. Bake something simple—a batch of cookies or a small loaf—to confirm that heat distributes evenly throughout the oven cavity. If baking is uneven (one side browning faster than the other), you may have an issue with the other element or air circulation, but the new element itself is working.