How to Replace a Broken Tool Handle

Wood handles are the soul of a good garden tool, but they inevitably succumb to rot, stress, or a missed swing. A broken handle doesn't mean the tool is trash; it means it's time for a simple restoration that often leaves you with a tool that feels sturdier than when it was factory-new. The secret isn't just in the wood, but in how you secure the head to the new handle. Done well, the repair creates a seamless fit that won't wiggle or slip during heavy use. You are essentially crafting a friction-fit union that gets stronger the more you use it. Take your time with the final fitting, as patience here is the difference between a tool that lasts another decade and one that comes apart on your next project.

Drill Out the Old Stub. If the wood remains inside the tool head, drill out the center of the old handle with a spade bit. Use a hammer and punch to knock out the remaining pieces from the top of the eye.
Scrub the Metal Clean. Use a wire brush to remove rust, debris, and stubborn wood fibers from the inside of the tool head. Smooth the internal walls with medium-grit sandpaper to ensure a clear path for the new handle.
Rasp for the Perfect Fit. Insert the new handle into the eye as far as it will go without force. Use a rasp to shave off wood from the shoulder of the handle where it binds, testing the fit repeatedly until it seats firmly.
Hammer the Head Down. Once the handle fits deep into the eye, strike the bottom of the handle against a firm surface or use a mallet to drive the head down onto the shoulder. Ensure the head is square and aligned with the handle.
Drive the Wedge Home. Drive a wooden or metal wedge into the saw-cut slot at the top of the handle inside the eye. The wedge forces the wood outward, locking the handle into the tapered metal head.
Oil and Polish the Handle. Saw off any excess handle protruding from the top of the head. Sand the area flush and apply a light coat of boiled linseed oil to the entire handle to prevent moisture absorption.