How to Install a Window Valance Above a Curtain Rod
Window valances do real work—they hide the curtain rod and its hardware, soften the upper line of a window, and pull a room's color scheme upward where it counts. Installing one above an existing rod is straightforward because the rod stays put; you're simply adding trim above it. The key is getting the height right so the valance sits clean without crowding the curtains, and anchoring it solid enough that it doesn't sag or shift. Done well, a valance looks built-in, not tacked on.
- Mark Your Level Line First. Measure up from the top of your curtain rod 4 to 6 inches and mark a light pencil line across the wall using a level. This is your mounting line. Use a stud finder to locate wall studs in this area. Mark stud locations lightly in pencil—you'll aim to anchor into studs if possible. If studs don't align with your desired width, you'll use heavy-duty wall anchors instead.
- Space Brackets Evenly. Hold your valance horizontally against the marked line. Most valances come with mounting brackets on the back; they're spaced roughly 16 to 24 inches apart depending on valance width. Mark the wall at each bracket location with a pencil. For a standard window, you'll typically place brackets 6 to 10 inches in from each end of the valance, then space additional brackets evenly between them. Step back and verify the valance will sit level and centered over the window.
- Pre-Drill Into Studs. Where your bracket marks align with studs (confirmed by stud finder), drill a pilot hole using a bit slightly smaller than your screws. Drill straight and shallow—just deep enough to guide the screw. If you miss studs and need to rely on anchors, skip this step for those locations and move to the next step.
- Anchor Drywall Securely. For bracket locations that don't hit studs, drill holes at your marked points using the bit size recommended by your wall anchor package—typically 1/4 inch. Insert the wall anchor into the hole by hand until it's flush with the wall. The anchor expands behind the wall when you drive the screw into it, creating a secure hold. Repeat for all non-stud locations.
- Secure Brackets to Valance. Lay the valance face-down on a clean surface. Align the mounting brackets with the back of the valance according to the manufacturer's template or markings. If brackets are adjustable, set them to the width of your valance. Use the screws provided to secure each bracket to the valance, driving them snug but not overtightened. Check that all brackets are equally spaced and square to the valance.
- Mount Valance Level. With a helper, lift the valance and align the brackets with your marked hole locations on the wall. Have your helper hold the valance level and steady while you insert and hand-tighten the first screw at one end. Then move to the opposite end and hand-tighten a screw there. This prevents tilting as you fully tighten. Step back and check level with a bubble level held against the valance face.
- Tighten All Fasteners. Once the valance is level and positioned, drive all screws firmly into studs or wall anchors using a cordless drill or power screwdriver. Don't overtighten; stop when the bracket pulls snug against the wall. The valance should not shift when you press up or down on it gently. If it feels loose, check that all screws are fully seated and anchors are engaged.
- Test Curtain Operation. Open and close your curtains fully to confirm they don't bunch or drag under the valance. Look at the window from across the room to check that the valance appears level and centered. The gap between the valance and curtain rod should be consistent side to side. If the curtains are catching, the valance may be too low; if there's too much empty space, it might be too high (though 6 inches is standard and usually looks balanced).
- Fill and Paint Over Holes. If you drilled extra pilot holes or made adjustments, fill any exposed holes with paintable caulk or wood filler that matches the wall or trim. Smooth it with a putty knife and let it dry according to package directions. Paint over filled areas to match the surrounding wall. Once dry, the holes will be invisible.