How to Install Hardwood Floors

Installing hardwood floors requires proper subfloor preparation, careful planning of board layout, and methodical installation using either nail-down or floating methods depending on your floor type.

  1. Get the Base Bone-Level. Remove all existing flooring and ensure your subfloor is level, dry, and structurally sound. Check for squeaks and secure any loose boards with screws. Use a 4-foot level to identify high and low spots. Sand down high areas and fill low spots with floor leveling compound. The subfloor should be within 3/16 inch of level over 10 feet.
  2. Lock Out Moisture First. Roll out rosin paper or plastic sheeting over the entire subfloor, overlapping seams by 4 inches. This prevents moisture from the subfloor from affecting your hardwood. For concrete subfloors, use a thicker plastic vapor barrier and allow it to run up walls about 2 inches.
  3. Map Your Starting Wall. Snap chalk lines to establish your starting wall. Choose the longest, straightest wall in the room. Measure the room width and divide by your board width to determine if you need to rip the final row. If the last row will be less than 2 inches wide, rip both the first and last rows evenly to avoid a narrow strip.
  4. Anchor the First Row Solid. Start with full-length boards along your starting wall, leaving a 3/4-inch expansion gap from the wall. Place the groove side toward the wall and nail through the face of the boards 6-8 inches from each end and every 8-10 inches along the length. Pre-drill holes to prevent splitting.
  5. Build Your Floor Pattern. Install subsequent rows by fitting the tongue of each board into the groove of the previous row. Tap boards together with a tapping block and hammer. Blind nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue every 8-10 inches. Stagger end joints by at least 6 inches between adjacent rows for a natural appearance.
  6. Trim Boards to Fit Tight. Measure and cut boards as needed using a miter saw or circular saw. Always measure twice and cut once. For the last few rows, you may need to face-nail since there is not enough room to angle nail. Use a pry bar to close gaps between the last row and the wall.
  7. Frame with Molding Details. Install quarter round or shoe molding around the room perimeter to cover expansion gaps. Nail the trim to the wall, never to the floor itself. Install transition strips at doorways where hardwood meets other flooring types. Choose transitions that complement your new floor.
  8. Sand Smooth, Seal Forever. If installing unfinished hardwood, sand the entire floor starting with 60-grit paper and progressing to 120-grit. Vacuum thoroughly between each grit. Apply wood stain if desired, then apply 3 coats of polyurethane finish, sanding lightly with 220-grit paper between coats.