How to Install Laminate Flooring

Installing laminate flooring involves preparing the subfloor, laying underlayment, and clicking planks together row by row. Most rooms can be completed in a weekend with basic tools.

1. Flatten and Clean First. Remove all existing flooring and baseboards. Check that the subfloor is level using a 4-foot level - any dips or bumps over 3/16 inch need to be fixed. Vacuum thoroughly and ensure the surface is clean and dry. Fill any gaps or holes with wood filler and sand down high spots.
2. Let Material Breathe. Bring the laminate boxes into the room at least 48 hours before installation. Stack them flat and let them adjust to the room's temperature and humidity. This prevents expansion and contraction issues later.
3. Lay the Cushion Layer. Roll out the foam underlayment perpendicular to how you'll lay the planks. Butt the edges together without overlapping and tape the seams with duct tape. Run the underlayment up the walls about 2 inches - you'll trim this later.
4. Map Your First Row. Measure the room width and divide by the plank width to see how many full rows you'll need. If the last row will be less than 2 inches wide, rip the first row narrower so both end rows are similar sizes. Mark a chalk line for your first row, leaving a 1/4 inch gap from the wall.
5. Anchor the Baseline. Cut the tongue off the first row of planks using a table saw or circular saw. Lay the first plank in the corner with the cut edge against the wall. Use spacers to maintain the 1/4 inch gap. Continue the first row, cutting the last plank to fit with the same 1/4 inch gap at the end.
6. Click and Lock Rows. Start each new row with the cutoff piece from the previous row if it's at least 12 inches long. Click the long edges together first by angling the plank at about 45 degrees, then lower it down. Tap the short ends together using a tapping block and hammer. Work row by row across the room.
7. Navigate Around Obstacles. Measure carefully around door jambs, heating vents, and other obstacles. Use a jigsaw for curved cuts and a circular saw for straight cuts. Remember to maintain expansion gaps around all fixed objects.
8. Finish the Final Row. The last row usually needs to be ripped to width. Measure the distance from the wall to the last full row, subtract 1/4 inch for the expansion gap, and rip the planks to this width. Use a pry bar to pull the final row tight against the previous row.
9. Trim and Hide Gaps. Remove the spacers and trim the excess underlayment. Install quarter round molding or baseboards to cover the expansion gaps. Use finishing nails and avoid nailing into the flooring itself. Install transition strips at doorways where the laminate meets other flooring types.