How to Install a Range Hood Over Your Stovetop

Installing a range hood is one of the most practical upgrades you can make to your kitchen. It pulls cooking smoke, steam, and odors out of your living space before they settle into cabinets, walls, and curtains. A properly installed hood also improves air quality and makes your kitchen feel larger by managing humidity. The work itself is straightforward if you plan the ducting route first and secure your mounting to solid structure. The difference between a hood that works and one that doesn't comes down to three things: solid mounting, unobstructed ductwork, and proper electrical connection. Get those right, and you've got a kitchen that breathes.

1. Chart Your Route First. Find the wall studs behind where the hood will mount using a stud finder, marking them lightly with pencil. Decide whether you'll duct straight up through the cabinet or ceiling, or out through the side wall. Measure the distance to your exterior wall and mark the hood centerline at a point 24 to 30 inches above the cooktop surface. Check for any obstacles—electrical boxes, gas lines, plumbing—along your intended duct path before you proceed.
2. Cut Clean From Below. Use a drywall saw or reciprocating saw to cut an opening in the ceiling or exterior wall matching your duct diameter (usually 6 or 8 inches for residential hoods). If you're cutting through a cabinet bottom, use a hole saw or jigsaw to avoid splintering the finish. Wear a dust mask and clear the work area. Patch the opening from the underside if you're creating a penetration point for ductwork.
3. Anchor Into Studs Only. Hold the bracket assembly (usually two vertical supports) level at your marked height, with its centerline aligned to your stovetop. Drill pilot holes into the wall studs through the bracket's mounting holes, using a level to confirm vertical alignment. Drive wood screws or lag bolts into the studs—never rely on drywall anchors alone for a hood; it's too heavy. If studs don't align with bracket holes, you'll need to install a horizontal support board between studs first, then mount the bracket to that board.
4. Route and Support Properly. Connect the flexible or rigid duct to the hood's outlet collar, using a hose clamp or duct tape to seal the connection. Route the duct along your planned path, supporting it every 4 feet with metal straps to prevent sagging. If using flexible duct, avoid crushing or excessively bending it, as this reduces airflow. At the exterior wall or roof penetration, install a duct cap or hood—this is the outlet vent you see outside. Seal any gaps where the duct meets the opening using duct sealant, not tape; tape fails over time with heat cycling.
5. Install and Level the Hood. Carefully position the range hood so its hanging slots align with the bracket tabs. Lift it slightly and slide it onto the brackets, then lower it so the bracket holds the hood's weight. Check that the hood is level using a spirit level placed on its top surface. Tighten any locking bolts or set screws that secure the hood to the brackets—these prevent the hood from shifting during operation.
6. Power and Test It. If your hood has a plug, run it to a nearby outlet or have an electrician add a dedicated circuit. If hardwired, connect it to a 120V circuit according to the manufacturer's wiring diagram—this typically means connecting black (hot), white (neutral), and green (ground) wires. Use wire nuts or a junction box rated for appliance use, never splice inside the hood cabinet. Restore power at the breaker and test the fan on all speed settings and the light function.
7. Filter and Trim Last. Slide the removable mesh or baffle filter into the filter holder inside the hood, making sure it seats fully. If there are gaps between the hood's edge and the cabinet or wall, install trim molding or filler panels to create a finished appearance and prevent air leaks around the hood. Use caulk or sealant on any seams to improve airflow efficiency.