Pest Control — traps, bait, and sealing work. Recurring infestations don't.

Pest control is 80% sealing entry points and 20% knowing when a pro is required. Termites and rodents in walls, bed bugs, and anything chemical-grade need a professional. Everything else — ants, occasional mice, fruit flies, spiders, wasps under 6 feet — is DIY with the right approach. Twelve guides organized by pest type and prevention strategy. We've put the projects worth doing first, then every guide we have, then the six mistakes that waste time and money, then the eight tools that actually work.

How to use this page

Pest control follows a simple hierarchy: seal first, bait second, spray only as last resort. Most problems are structural — gaps, food sources, water access — not biological. Fix the structure and the biology takes care of itself. The guides below are organized by prevention (sealing, pantry protection), then by removal method (traps, bait stations), then by identification and specialty pests. Start with sealing your entry points. Everything else flows from that decision.

When this is DIY

You can handle ants with bait stations placed on their trails. You can knock down a wasp nest if it's under 6 feet, less than a week old, and you have no allergies. You can set snap traps correctly, eliminate fruit flies (they're a sanitation problem, not a pest), control spiders (they're pest control), and seal entry points with mesh, foam, and hardware cloth. You can identify bed bugs and cockroaches, and you can deal with yellow jackets using traps instead of sprays. These are all DIY projects with clear success metrics. If the problem goes away after one cycle of treatment and doesn't come back, you solved it. If it comes back, you missed something structural — usually a gap in your sealing strategy.

When to call a pro

Termites in walls, bed bugs, rats in cavities, anything recurring, and anything chemical-grade. Termites are not a DIY problem — they're structural, they spread fast, and the chemicals used are hazardous. Bed bugs are recurring by default; one missed egg ruins your whole treatment. Rats in cavities (walls, attics) require trapping inside the wall, which often means opening drywall. Chemical-grade treatments like tenting or whole-house fumigation are health hazards and require licensing. A professional inspector will also find structural problems you'd miss — gaps, water sources, conditions that make the problem worse — and they'll tell you what to fix so it doesn't come back.

Five pest-control projects, ranked by what they're worth

If you only ever do five pest-control projects, do these. Ranked by prevention per dollar, per hour, per problem avoided.

1. How to seal entry points for mice

Mice need a quarter-inch gap. Most homes have dozens around the foundation, under doors, around pipes, through dryer vents, and near roof eaves. One weekend sealing stops 80% of future mouse problems. Use hardware cloth (they can't chew it), expanding foam (fill the gap, then second-layer the foam with mesh), or copper mesh (expensive but lasts forever). This is the single highest-leverage pest project.

2. How to get rid of ants naturally

Spray them and you kill today's ants. Bait stations let them walk the poison back to the nest, killing the queen and the colony. Place stations on their trails (ants follow pheromones), not randomly. Bait includes borax-based ant baits (Terro, Raid baits). This takes 30 minutes to set up and 7-10 days to work, but it works. After they're gone, seal the holes they used to enter.

3. How to knock down a wasp nest safely

Only DIY if: nest is under 6 feet, less than a week old (still soft), and no one in the house is allergic. Spray at dusk (wasps are slower, mostly in the nest), let it sit overnight, remove the nest the next morning with a plastic bag over it. Anything bigger, taller, or older gets a phone call. Wasps are more aggressive than you think.

4. How to set a snap trap correctly

Trigger sensitivity matters — most traps sold are set too loose and misfire on air currents. Placement matters more — set traps along walls where mice run (they feel safe running walls, not the middle of a room). Bait matters — peanut butter is dry; use chocolate, nesting material, or fresh baits. Rotate bait every 3 days if unused. A correctly set trap catches a mouse the first night. A sloppy set trap sits empty all week.

5. How to spot the difference between termites and flying ants

Termites have straight antennae and a thick waist (no pinch). Flying ants have elbowed antennae and a pinched middle. Termites are wood-eating. Flying ants are just regular ants with wings, swarming in spring to mate. Seeing flying termites in spring is a red flag — call a pro. Seeing flying ants is normal. The difference is literally antennae and waist shape.

Every pest-control guide, in one list

Twelve guides total. Prevention first, removal second, identification and specialty pests third.

Six mistakes everyone makes

Pest control is part science, part structure, part patience. These six mistakes are where most DIY efforts fail.

1. Spraying before sealing entry points

You kill today's bugs. New ones walk in tomorrow. The spray solves zero of the structural problems. Sealing stops 80% of future problems; spraying stops 0% of new arrivals.

2. Ignoring thresholds, weep holes, and utility penetrations

Mice don't use your front door. They come through the dryer vent, foundation cracks, gaps around pipes, the space under the garage door, weep holes in brick, and the gap where the deck attaches to the house. A quarter-inch gap is an entry point. Walk your house with a flashlight at dusk. You'll find dozens.

3. Killing spiders, lizards, and beneficial insects

One spider eats 50+ flies a week. One lizard eats thousands of roaches a year. They're pest control. Leave them alone. Relocate only if they're in your bedroom.

4. Using peanut butter alone in traps

Peanut butter is dry and loses scent in 24 hours. Mice ignore it after the first day. Rotate bait: peanut butter, chocolate, nesting material. Change it every 3 days if unused.

5. Leaving pet food out overnight

You've just built a restaurant. Feed once daily, remove bowls within an hour. Store dry food in airtight containers, not paper bags.

6. Assuming DIY bait cycles will handle recurring problems

If pests come back after one treatment, it's structural, not biological. You're missing a gap, a food source, or a water source. Recurring problems need a professional inspection first, then DIY sealing and prevention.

The toolkit

Most pest problems are solved before you ever see the pest. The toolkit is sealing and prevention — hardware cloth, mesh, foam, traps, bait stations, gloves, and cleanup equipment. A shop-vac with a HEPA filter is critical; regular vacuums spread droppings through your air system.

Common questions

What's the best bait for snap traps?

Peanut butter is the classic, but it dries out. Chocolate, whole nuts, or nesting material work better and last longer. Rotate your bait every 3 days if the trap hasn't fired. Fresh bait is more attractive than stale peanut butter.

How long does bait take to work?

Ant bait takes 7-10 days — the ants walk it back to the nest and the poison kills the queen and colony. Snap traps can work the first night if set correctly. Glue traps take 2-3 days. Roach bait takes 5-7 days. Be patient and don't spray while you're baiting.

Can I use poison bait stations with pets and kids?

Tamper-proof bait stations are designed to keep pets and kids out. They work. If you have young kids or very determined dogs, consult a professional.

What does a quarter-inch gap actually mean?

A dime is about 1/16 of an inch. A quarter-inch is about the thickness of a pen barrel or a credit card. Mice can squeeze through anything larger than that. If you can fit a pencil in the gap, a mouse can fit through it.

Why do pests come back after I treat them?

You didn't seal the entry point. You killed the current pest, but new ones find the same gap you left open. Seal first, bait second. Seal the gap and the problem doesn't come back.

When should I call a professional exterminator?

Termites, bed bugs, rats in cavities, anything recurring, and anything chemical-grade. Also call a pro for a pre-purchase inspection if you're buying a house. They'll find structural pest issues you'd miss and estimate the cost to fix them.

How do I know if I have termites or just carpenter ants?

Carpenter ants are large (about a quarter-inch) and build nests in wood but don't eat it. Termites are smaller and eat the wood, leaving sawdust trails. Both create galleries in wood. The difference: carpenter ants leave the wood hollow but structurally intact for a while; termites destroy the wood from inside out. If you see mud tubes (termites) or live insects inside wood, call a pro immediately. Carpenter ants alone can be treated with boric acid powder placed in galleries, but termites require professional treatment and usually mean structural damage.

What's the fastest way to eliminate fruit flies?

Fruit flies are attracted to fermenting fruit and standing liquid. The fastest solution: drain cleaning. Pour boiling water down your sink drain at night (where they breed in organic buildup), then follow with a mixture of baking soda and vinegar. Do this for 3 nights in a row. Simultaneously, remove all fermenting fruit and take out trash. If you have a compost bin, freeze scraps until collection day. Fruit flies cycle every 8-10 days, so this treatment takes one full cycle to show results. Apple cider vinegar traps (a bowl with a drop of dish soap) catch adults but don't solve the breeding problem. Always start with drain cleaning and removal of food sources.

Can I mix different bait types in the same space?

No. Different baits attract different pests, and mixing them can make some less effective. Ant baits should not be placed near rodent traps because they attract different predatory behaviors. If you have both mice and ants, bait the ants first (they'll take 7-10 days), then set rodent traps only after you've sealed entry points. Roach baits should be placed in cabinets and under sinks, away from ant trails. Plan your bait strategy by pest type, not by convenience.

How often should I replace weatherstripping around doors?

Check yearly, especially in spring and fall. Weatherstripping degrades from temperature cycling and UV exposure. If you can see light under a closed door, the seal is broken. Replace it when you notice drafts, not on a fixed schedule. A tight door seal also saves energy — the pest-prevention benefit is secondary to comfort and utility savings. Use self-adhesive foam tape for doors and windows; it's easier than rubber bulb seals and lasts 3-5 years in mild climates, 2-3 years in harsh ones.

Preventive maintenance schedule

The difference between homes with recurring pest problems and homes that never have them is maintenance. This schedule prevents 90% of common household pests:

Monthly

Seasonal (spring and fall)

Annually

A home on this schedule has foundational pest prevention in place. When pests do appear, they're isolated incidents, not infestations. The cost of this maintenance is $0 (mostly sweat equity) unless you hire professionals for roof inspection or chimney cleaning. Compare that to the cost of a pest control service visit ($150–400) or structural damage from termites ($3,000–10,000+).

About pest control as a trade

Pest control is a 3 out of 5 on our DIY-ability scale. The skill curve is shallow — most people who seal one house can seal every house in their neighborhood. The decision tree is simple: seal first, bait second, call a pro if recurring or chemical. The difference between amateur and pro is knowledge of structural vulnerabilities and chemical safety. For most household pests, the knowledge is findable and the chemicals are safe in small quantities. For termites, bed bugs, and cavity rodents, the chemicals are hazardous and the structural issues are complex. That's when you call a professional. The median DIY project is one weekend. The median cost is $40 for a basic sealing. Everything else is yours.