Trades — when to DIY, when to call.

Nine trades, ranked by how much of the work belongs to you on a Saturday — and where the line is before you should be picking up the phone. This isn't a directory of contractors. It's an editorial guide on what a trade actually does, what you can reasonably handle yourself, and the moment you should stop and dial. Use it to size a project before you start, to write a smarter brief when you do hire, and to know — in the middle of a job that's going sideways — exactly when to put the tool down.

How this hub is ranked

Every trade gets a one-to-five DIY-ability rating. A 1 is "just do it" — bring a willingness to learn and a Saturday. A 5 is "always call" — anything else risks property damage, code violations, or your own safety. The middle tiers are where most homeowners spend their time: 2 is "weekend work with the right tools," 3 is "try first, then hire if it gets weird," 4 is "mostly a pro call but you can chip away at the edges." We've put the 1s and 2s at the top of the list and the 5s at the bottom — the closer you are to the bottom, the more you should be writing a check, not picking up a wrench.

What's in scope here

Trades pages on HowTo: Home Edition are advisory, not instructional. They answer four questions per trade: what does this trade actually do, when is the work safe to attempt yourself, when should you call a professional, and what should you ask before you hire one. For step-by-step DIY instructions, the room hubs (Kitchen, Bathroom, Bedroom, etc.) and the task lanes (Repair, Install, Build, Clean, Organize, Decorate) are where the how-to articles live. This hub points you toward the right kind of help — yours or someone else's.

1. Painting — "Just do it yourself."

The most forgiving trade in the home. A roller, a tray, two coats, and patience around the trim.

When to DIY: Single rooms, accent walls, refreshing trim, exterior touch-ups under 8ft.

When to call a pro: Whole-house exteriors, lead-paint removal, sprayed cabinetry, vaulted ceilings.

Beginner-friendly. $30–$200. Saturday job. Read the painting trade page →

2. Landscaping — "Mostly weekend work."

Mowing, mulching, planting, simple beds — all yours. Hardscape and grading earn a phone call.

When to DIY: Mowing, planting, mulch, edging, simple raised beds, basic irrigation timers.

When to call a pro: Drainage, retaining walls, stone patios, tree removal, full re-grade.

Tools required. Seasonal. $0–$5K. Read the landscaping trade page →

3. Handyman — "Try first, then hire."

The catch-all. Door tune-ups, drywall patches, picture rails, leaky faucets, that one squeaky stair.

When to DIY: Hanging shelves, patching small holes, replacing fixtures, adjusting cabinet hinges.

When to call a pro: Anything that becomes "while we're at it" — a list of 8+ small jobs is a one-day pro hire.

Mixed skills. Hourly $80–$120. Half-day jobs. Read the handyman trade page →

4. Pest Control — "Depends what you're chasing."

Traps, bait stations, and sealing entry points get you 80%. Termites and rodents in walls do not.

When to DIY: Ants, the occasional mouse, fruit flies, spiders, wasp nests under 6ft.

When to call a pro: Termites, bed bugs, rats in cavities, anything recurring, anything chemical-grade.

Health & safety. Recurring service. $150–$600 per visit. Read the pest control trade page →

5. Plumbing — "Know where the shutoff is."

Shutoff to fixture is fair game. Anything inside the wall — slow down, or call.

When to DIY: Faucets, supply lines, toilet rebuilds, P-traps, garbage disposals, basic shutoff valves.

When to call a pro: In-wall pipe, water heaters, anything soldered, sewer lines, slab leaks, permit work.

Water = damage. Permits matter. Always shut it off first. Read the plumbing trade page →

6. Roofing — "Mostly a pro call."

Patching a single shingle on a one-story is a Saturday. Anything else, you're hiring height insurance.

When to DIY: Replacing one or two shingles on a single-story walkable pitch. Cleaning gutters.

When to call a pro: Re-roofs, flashing, valleys, leaks, anything two stories up, anything steeper than a 6:12 pitch.

Heights and falls. Often an insurance event. Permit usually required. Read the roofing trade page →

7. HVAC — "Maintenance yes, repair no."

Filters, vents, and a good thermostat — yes. Refrigerant, ductwork, and gas — no.

When to DIY: Swap filters monthly, vacuum returns, install a smart thermostat, seal obvious duct leaks with mastic.

When to call a pro: Refrigerant, condenser repair, furnace work, full duct runs, sizing a new system.

EPA-licensed work for refrigerant. Sealed system. $200–$15K. Read the HVAC trade page →

8. Electrical — "Almost always a pro call."

Switches and fixtures with the breaker off — okay. Anything in the panel — call. Always.

When to DIY: Replacing a like-for-like switch, outlet, or light fixture with the breaker confirmed off and the circuit tested dead.

When to call a pro: Panel work, new circuits, aluminum wiring, knob-and-tube, anything outdoors, anything wet.

Permit and inspection required. Fire risk. Licensed electricians only beyond like-for-like swaps. Read the electrical trade page →

9. General Contracting — "This is what GCs are for."

Whole rooms, additions, anything that touches three trades and a permit. This is project management, not a Saturday.

When to DIY: You can be your own GC if you have time, patience, contacts, and a strong stomach for permits and subs not showing up.

When to call a pro: Renovations, additions, anything structural, anything load-bearing, kitchens, bathrooms, anything you intend to refinance against.

Project management. Permits and inspectors. GC fee is typically 10%–20% of total project cost. Read the general contracting trade page →

How to read the difficulty rating

We use a 1-to-5 wrench scale on every trade page. The number is calibrated against the average homeowner with no professional experience and one weekend free. Here's what each score actually means.

What this hub does NOT cover

A few things deliberately sit outside the trades directory.

Three rules that apply to every trade

Get three quotes, not one. The middle quote is usually the right one — the lowest is missing scope, the highest is padding for risk. Even on a small job, a second opinion catches the diagnostic mistake before it becomes a bill.

Never pay more than 10% up front. A reputable trade carries the cost of materials and gets paid on milestones. Larger deposits are a financing problem on their end, not a trust signal you should reward.

The lowest bid is rarely the cheapest job. Underbids get made up in change orders. A clean scope with a fair price beats a vague scope with a low price every time. Read the contract before you sign — especially the change-order clause and the lien waiver.

Common questions about hiring a trade

How do I find a reputable trade in my area? Word of mouth beats every directory site. Ask three neighbors who've done a similar job in the last two years. Failing that, your local subreddit (r/[city name]) typically has a recurring contractor recommendation thread. Treat the first three Google results with suspicion — those are paid placements.

What do I need to get a quote? Photos of the area, rough dimensions, your timeline, and your tolerance for disruption. The more specific your scope, the more accurate the quote. Vague scope leads to vague quotes leads to change orders.

What's a fair labor rate? Plumbers, electricians, and HVAC techs run $80–$200/hour depending on city. Painters and handymen run $40–$80/hour. General contractors charge a percentage (10%–20%) of total project cost rather than hourly. These are 2026 rates and trend with local cost of living.

Do I need a permit? Almost always for electrical panel work, plumbing inside walls, structural changes, additions, and gas line work. Almost never for like-for-like fixture replacements, painting, or cosmetic work. Your municipality's building department can confirm in 5 minutes by phone.

What about insurance? Ask every trade for proof of liability insurance and (if they have employees) workers' comp. A serious trade carries both and provides a certificate within an hour of asking. If they hesitate, find another trade.

How do I handle a disagreement? In writing, calmly, with photos, referencing the original scope. Most disputes are scope-creep arguments — the work that got done isn't the work that was quoted. A clean written scope upfront prevents 95% of these.

How quotes, contracts, and payments actually work

Every trade engagement passes through the same four documents. Knowing what each one does protects you from the most common disputes.

The estimate vs the bid vs the contract

An estimate is a ballpark — non-binding, used during early scoping. A bid (or quote) is a firm price for a defined scope. A contract turns an accepted bid into a binding agreement that includes scope, price, payment schedule, change-order procedure, warranty terms, and dispute resolution. Never start work on an estimate; always have a contract for anything over a one-day handyman visit.

Payment schedules — what's standard

For a project under $1,000: full payment on completion, no deposit. For $1,000–$10,000: 10%–25% deposit on contract signing, balance on completion. For $10,000+: deposit, milestone payments tied to defined deliverables (rough-in complete, finishes installed, final inspection passed), and a 5%–10% final payment held back until punch-list items are resolved. A trade asking for 50%+ upfront is a financing problem, not a trust signal.

Change orders — the most common dispute source

A change order is a written addendum that adjusts scope, price, or timeline. They should be initialed by both parties before the changed work begins. Verbal change orders are how scope creeps and budgets blow — every change, in writing, signed before work starts. Even if it's $50.

Lien waivers — the document nobody talks about

On larger projects, subcontractors and material suppliers can place a mechanic's lien on your home if they're not paid by the GC. A conditional waiver means "I will release my lien rights when I'm paid." An unconditional waiver means "I have been paid and I release my rights." Always collect unconditional waivers from subs and suppliers before making the final payment to a GC. This is non-negotiable on any project over $5,000.

Permits — what they are and aren't

A permit is the city's written confirmation that the work meets code. It typically requires a licensed trade for issue and an inspector visit to close out. Permits matter at resale (unpermitted work shows up on disclosures and gets discounted) and matter for insurance (unpermitted work voids most homeowner policies in the affected area). Cost is typically $50–$500 depending on scope. Time to issue is 1 day to 6 weeks depending on city.

Insurance, warranty, and what's actually covered

Two insurance products and one warranty type apply to almost every trade engagement. Understanding the difference matters when something goes wrong six months later.

Liability insurance covers the trade if their work damages your property — they back into your fence, drop a ladder through a window, or the new pipe they installed leaks and ruins the floor below. Coverage runs $1M–$2M for general trades, more for plumbers and electricians. Always ask for a current Certificate of Insurance (COI) listing you as an additional insured for the duration of the project.

Workers' compensation covers the trade's employees if they're injured on your property. If a trade has employees and doesn't carry workers' comp, you the homeowner can be sued directly for an on-site injury. Sole proprietors with no employees are exempt — confirm this in writing on the COI.

Workmanship warranty is the trade's promise that their work will perform as expected for a specified period. Industry standard is 1 year for cosmetic work (paint, finish carpentry), 2-5 years for installations (plumbing, HVAC), 10-25 years for major systems (roofing, siding). Material warranties (the manufacturer's coverage of the product) are separate and typically longer.

Trades and the rest of HowTo: Home Edition

The trades hub answers "who does this work and when do I call them." The six task lanes (Repair, Install, Build, Clean, Organize, Decorate) answer "how do I do this work myself when it's appropriate to DIY." The ten room hubs (Kitchen, Bathroom, Bedroom, Living Room, Basement, Garage, Attic, Exterior, Deck/Patio, Lawn/Garden) answer "what should I be doing in this room across all six task lanes." Every guide on the site lives at the intersection of a task lane and a room — for example, "How to tile a kitchen backsplash" is Install × Kitchen, not Trades. Trades pages are advisory, not instructional. They're the page you read before you decide whether to pick up the wrench or pick up the phone.

Seasonality — when each trade is busy

Trade availability and pricing follow predictable seasonal patterns. Booking against the season saves both time and money.

Three patterns of misuse to avoid

Most homeowner-trade disputes follow one of three patterns. Recognizing them early saves both money and the relationship.

Pattern 1 — Friend-of-a-friend pricing

Hiring through informal channels ("my buddy can do it for cash") almost always lacks insurance, written scope, and recourse. The savings up front are real; the exposure if something goes wrong is total. Use this only for the smallest jobs ($200 or less) where the worst-case downside is wasted money.

Pattern 2 — Scope creep "while we're at it"

The trade is on-site. You notice another small thing. They offer to do it. Two hours and $400 later, the original two-hour job is a six-hour bill. Either pre-budget for "while we're at it" work explicitly, or hold a separate list and schedule a second visit at a known rate.

Pattern 3 — The slow walk-away

Big project, deposit paid, work starts strong, then slows. The trade has moved on to a more profitable job and is keeping yours barely alive. The cure is a contract with milestones and a daily-presence requirement, plus the threat of withholding the final payment until the punch list is clear.